How Do You Copy a Copy?

Typically, we might provide a brief introduction to whatever we’re featuring here, which in this case would be the China-based brand Purlicue. Despite being already quite well-known for their unorthodox takes on traditional footwear, there was no brand statement to be found anywhere. When we sat down with Su Wukou, the head designer and founder of Purlicue, we asked him a series of questions. Like interviews with other fashion designers, we anticipated our conversation to meander into lengthy responses that would help explain the brand’s core concepts and aesthetics – it didn’t quite play out that way. While the answers were unexpected, they felt true to the spirit of the brand. Without further ado, below is our interview with Su Wukou.


这里需要一段Purlicue的简短品牌介绍,比如鞋履发家的中国品牌Purlicue…但是似乎并不存在这样的东西,因为不敢胡乱下笔,把这个问题抛给了设计师苏五口本人,期待他像其他服装设计师那样漫谈他的设计理念。抛出一些自认比较能发散思维的问题后,并没有得到预想的侃侃而谈,但仔细想一想,这也许反而是最Purlicue的表达。以下是我们对苏五口的采访。

Neocha: Originally, you were an architect. How did you become interested in fashion design? What is the connection between architecture and fashion?

Su Wukou: Finding possibilities with the resources you have available. Above both architecture and fashion, I hope to design bottled drinks.


Neocha: After starting your own fashion brand, have you continued working with architecture design? Do you feel like you prefer one field over the other now?

Su Wukou: If I meet the right architect, maybe we can do something together.


Neocha你原本是做建筑设计,有什么契机让你兴起设计服装的念头?或者说你认为的这两者之间的联系在哪里?

苏五口: 在力所能及的的范围找新的可能。相比于建筑与服装,我最希望做是做瓶装饮料。


Neocha创建自己的服装品牌后,你还有继续做建筑设计吗,或者说在你心里建筑跟服装的天平有倾斜到哪边吗?

苏五口: 遇到适合的建筑师可能会合作做一做。

Neocha: You’ve purposefully avoided writing a brand introduction and omitted what your brand stands for. But even with so many independent designers and brands nowadays, your work still commands immediate attention, clearly standing out above it all. What unique characteristics do you think you bring to the table? Or do you have any industry secrets?

Su Wukou: I don’t even know what Purlicue is. I think it’s best this way. That sort of clarity hinders creation. I don’t know how you thought up the angle with industry secrets. I have to think about this.


Neocha: Some people think your designs are too obvious and superficial. What are your thoughts on this?

Su WukouI approach my designs quite seriously. Others find it humorous. These aren’t people I’m interested in appealing to.


Neocha你一直没有刻意写品牌介绍去传达你的设计价值观,但在当下独立设计师众多的情况下你的设计还是常常会第一时间抓人眼球,你觉得你的这种特质是什么,或者你发现了什么行业小机密?

苏五口: 我自己都还说不清楚Purlicue是什么东西,也觉得这样比较好,清晰了有碍创作。没想到你会在行业秘密这个角度看,我也要想想这是为什么。


Neocha: 也有人会觉得你的设计太直接流于表面,这点你怎么看?

苏五口: 我设计时态度是算严肃的。但人家觉得幽默,搞笑炒作我不太管,这些也不是我的倾听者。

Neocha: What typically inspires you to create? Films? Music? Something or someone in your life?

Su Wukou: Imagination. Imagining common words used in everyday life and reinterpreting it through my own means.


Neocha: Your newest collection, THE FAKE, is a proud display of counterfeit fashion. What are your thoughts on knockoffs?

Su Wukou: Let’s not all go around making counterfeits willy-nilly.


Neocha通常什么东西会对你的产生启发?影像音乐或者你生活里的什么事物?

苏五口: 纯想象,想象日常最普通的词汇,用自己的方法再理解一次。


Neocha: 你的最新《THE FAKE》系列把抄袭这件事放到了台面上,可以跟我们讲一下你对现今品牌抄袭的看法吗?

苏五口: 大家别乱抄袭啊。

Neocha: Any plans for a change of direction in Purlicue’s future? How do you see the brand developing in the future?

Su Wukou: I hope my Taobao store can get a crown symbol. (Once a seller completes 10,001 transactions on the Taobao e-commerce platform, they’ll receive a crown symbol. Up to five crowns can be earned.)


Neocha: Anything more you’d like to share with us about yourself or Purlicue?

Su WukouI don’t like to be defined. The intention of an interview is to define the undefined. I think it’s best to stay quiet and low key. Instead, create more and keep moving forward.


Neocha: 对PURLICUE未来的发展有什么计划或改变吗?

苏五口: 希望淘宝店快点变皇冠。


Neocha: 请问还有什么想要补充的吗?

苏五口: 我不太喜欢下定义,做访问本身是下定义给看法,我觉得最好的状态还是安静点,多点作品,多点前进。

Pro Tip: Purlicue’s latest collection, THE FAKE, is made up of direct copies of other brand’s designs. But the clothing isn’t the crux of the collection; the attached tag is a pattern design and the actual centerpiece. What’s purchased isn’t the final product. It’s meant to be used as a fabric source, and with the provided template, buyers can create a new article of clothing.


备注: Purlicue的最新系列《THE FAKE》的衣服都是抄袭其他品牌的,但在这个系列里衣物不那么重要,作为纸样的吊牌才是绝对主角,购买者可以根据吊牌以衣服为布料重新制作出一件衣服。

Weibo: @苏五口
Taobao: conpconp

 

供稿人: Shou Xing
Images Courtesy of Purlicue


微博: @苏五口
淘宝: conpconp

 

供稿人: Shou Xing
图片由Purlicue提供