Idealists vs. Nihilists 时装周里的世纪谈判

April 5, 2019 2019年4月5日

Making my way past the stylishly dressed crowds and hordes of photographers at this year’s fashion week, I found myself at a history-making conference.

Inside, distorted audio of Party propaganda played in my ears as I was ushered into a dimly lit room. A set of red curtains being slowly pulled back marked the beginning of the show. Two different factions, differentiated by the pop of red and blue on their outfits, entered space. Gathered around them, a third group dressed in a neutral gray watched on. Representing nihilists and idealists, the red and blue parties seated across from one another at the circle of conference tables suddenly erupted in argument. After a heated back and forth, the negotiations end amicably with members from both factions amicably shaking hands.


穿梭于时装周每个镜头背后精心装扮的身影里,我去了一个世纪谈判现场。

耳朵里交替着刻意机械化处理的口号,走进一个昏暗空间,红色的幕布徐徐拉开,身着红蓝制服的两个阵营与一身灰衣的目击者悉数登场。

在一阵激烈的内部争论后,两大阵营在圆桌前握手言和。

A closer look at the models reveal meticulously designed pieces worn beneath their seemingly identical outfits and impeccable makeup work. By this point, it was clear that XIMON LEE has tossed all fashion show conventions out the window for its 2019 A/W collection. The attending audience were transcended the role of passive observers; they became officials presiding over this roundtable negotiation.


而拉近焦距后显现的那些藏在制服下的设计细节跟精致的妆容才让你幡然醒悟,XIMON LEE 19 A/W 又一次革新了你对一场时装发布会的理解,观众不再只是旁观者,更是这场理想主义与虚无主义和解的见证人。

XIMON LEE is a fashion label founded by Korean Chinese designer Li Dongxing. At the age of 24, Li became the first menswear designer to win the H&M Design Award and make it into the semifinals of the LVMH Youth Design Competition.

Li’s parents are from Daegu, South Korea, while he was born in Heilongjiang, China, and his formative years were spent between Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. He studied in New York, graduating from the Parsons School of Designs before moving to Berlin where he’s now based. These multicultural experiences have gifted him with an appreciation for cultural diversity, which has allowed him to produce refreshingly unexpected designs season after season.


XIMON LEE 是毕业于帕森斯设计学院的韩裔华人设计师李东兴创立的服装品牌,24岁就成为首位获得 H&M 设计大奖的男装设计师,接着又入围了 LVMH 青年设计大赛候选名单。

现居柏林的 Ximon,父辈来自韩国大邱却出生于黑龙江,之后辗转在北京、上海、香港、纽约学习生活,复杂的阅历让他对文化多样性有更深刻的理解,这也使得 XIMON LEE 每一季都呈现出截然不同的惊喜。

Li’s talent lies in his ability find inspiration from unlikely sources: the 2005 documentary The Children of Leningradsky, bodily shame, mass production culture, and now nihilism and idealism. While each collection is unique in their own right, they share commonality in that they’re all methods for him to offer his commentary on modern society. His avant-garde shows are a marked departure from the extravagant consumerism that’s often celebrated at deafening volume in today’s fashion world. What Li offers is an untainted creative vision that cuts through the noise.


系列灵感从《列宁格勒的孩子》、美丑观念、到人为复制再到这场虚拟的对峙,每个情感点都独立存在却又饱含着统一的对社会议题的讨论。在这场几乎快被消费主义掌权的华丽又嘈杂的表演里,大概是为数不多清晰可辨的声音了。

Website: ximonlee.com
Instagram: @ximonlee
Weibo: ~/ximonlee

 

Contributor: Shou Xing
Photographer: Chan Qu


网站: ximonlee.com
Instagram: @ximonlee
微博: ~/ximonlee

 

供稿人: 寿星
摄影师: 凤阳