“L’s designs all look bitchy.”
I quickly put away my phone when I see my friend’s message. In front of me sits Hao Lingyu, a recent graduate of Donghua University who has red hair and a knack for designing bitchy clothing. In her bedroom, she keeps a shy hedgehog as a pet, along with a collection of cute stuffed animals and shojo manga.
“When I was little, I actually wanted to be a comic artist, but I eventually realized I couldn’t quite cut it,” she confides.
Coming from a family of architects, she likes to approach things from a holistic angle. That’s how she chose fashion design: she wasn’t entirely following her dreams or hobbies. In fact, she’s also curious about what her life would be like if she’d listened to her mother and chosen engineering.
“ L 的东西看上去婊婊的。”
看完这条朋友的评价,我放下手机继续跟眼前的郝凌宇本人闲聊,这个顶着一头红发、作品婊婊的服装设计师今年才刚从东华大学毕业。她的房间里有一只非常内向的刺猬,还充满了各种可爱的动物布偶和梦幻的少女漫画,“其实我小时候有想要当一个漫画家,后来发现自己的水平好像没法出道。”
建筑家庭出身的她,喜欢综合一切因素去考虑问题,就像她选择服装设计,并不完全出于梦想啊、爱好啊之类的理由。事实上,她同样好奇如果当时听妈妈的话选择工科,现在的自己会是怎么样。
The emerging designer incorporates all sorts of different elements into her works. “In my life, I’m bombarded with information, and when I make something I often throw a bunch of random things together,” she says. “By the time I’ve reorganized them, sometimes the designs don’t even look like they’re mine.”
Her three new collections, Temporary Template, Common People, and Artificial God, touch on issues from religion and fertility rites to everyday life to thangkas made from human skin. Within these wildly divergent themes, her design details are equally varied. Artificial God, for example, shows her thoughts about traditional Tibetan Buddhist culture, but she opted to present the collection in the form of a virtual game.
她的作品涵盖的元素丰富多样,“我的生活常会接收大量信息,做东西时似乎经常把一些有的没的东西揉和在一起,重组过后,有时候甚至会觉得这些作品不像是我的。”
最新的三个系列《Temporary Template》、《Common People》、《Artificial God》分别讲述了宗教与生殖崇拜、普通人以及人皮唐卡三个命题,南辕北辙的主题里同样包含着形色各异的细节,比如《Artificial God》的概念来自藏传佛教文化, 但她却选择以虚拟游戏的视角去呈现这个系列。
In both their use of materials and their final appearance, Hao’s designs are very much in step with subculture trends. But she insists she’s drawn to these ideas naturally and doesn’t make a point of trying to stand out. In fact, what she’s become aware of, not only in her own designs but also in the current environment, is how ordinary she is.
“Kids today all think they’re special,” she says. “I wish everyone would wake up.”
无论是对材料的运用还是最终的视觉呈现,这些作品似乎都正中了当下的亚文化风潮。但 L 认为自己只是自然而然的选择这些命题,而非刻意地去表现特立独行。相反地,结合当下环境她从自己的作品中意识到更多的是自己的普通,“现在小孩都觉得自己特殊,希望大家醒醒。”
Contributor: Shou Xing
Photographers: Kimon Liang & Crown Wang
供稿人: Shou Xing
摄影师: Kimon Liang & Crown Wang