Is it that life was more interesting in the past or that we look at the past through rose-colored glasses? Either way, vintage is still hip, and a group of local Chiang Mai entrepreneurs is leveraging its timeless cool in their businesses—some driven by nostalgia, all driven by passion.
真的是过去的生活比较有趣吗？还是因为它带着玫瑰色的滤镜？无论如何，Vintage 现在仍然很时髦，一群清迈当地的创业家选择善加利用 Vintage 的迷人魅力，有人是出于念旧而为之，但对他们来说，热情是最根本的动力。
The Toys Club & 1st Press
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When Bird Trinniphat found a childhood toy, a Japanese superhero figurine made in 1991, he was filled with joy. This would become the start of a collection of now over 3000 original Japanese toys from the 1960s to the late 1990s. His entire collection is now on display at his café, The Toys Club, tucked away on a nondescript street east of the Ping River. The collectibles are displayed alongside retro video games, signage, and other related paraphernalia.
He keeps his most valuable items in a glass cabinet near the bar, including his rarest toy: the Tetsujin 28-go, a handmade robot from the early 1980s, and one of only 500 ever made. “Their value increases with the years,” he explains of his toys’ value. “If you still have the original box and original price tag, even better. Sometimes, these toys were never opened at all, which makes them even more valuable.”
Trinniphat often travels to Japan to hunt for collectibles in toy stores, thrift shops, and even local grocery shops, avoiding bigger cities to get better deals. In recent years, he’s begun looking for noteworthy items in Thailand, at a small town by the Salween River, on the border between Thailand and Myanmar, where containers filled with second-hand products from Japan regularly arrive. “They sell stuff in bulk, by the kilo,” he says. “Sometimes I find truly fascinating stuff in the piles, and people don’t realize their value.”
A sliding door at the back of The Toys Club opens into 1st Press, a hidden Japanese-style vinyl bar, Trinniphat’s latest project. Together with Print Siwakorn, a 24-year-old vinyl collector and bartender, they’ve faithfully recreated the atmosphere of a Japanese speakeasy in Chiang Mai, similar to the ones Trinniphat would visit on his trips. The space—decorated with old sofas, chairs, and an impressive record collection—is inviting and warm, and feels more like a friend’s living room than a bar.
Hours:
The Toy Club, Tuesday to Saturday, 10 AM ~ 6 PM
1st Press, Tuesday to Saturday, 5 PM~ 12 AM
Address:
46/1 San Pa Koi Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District
当 Bird Trinniphat 找到了一个小时候的玩具——1991 年制造的日本超级英雄模型时，他感到无比开心。这触发他开始收藏 1960 年代到 1990 年代的中古日本原创玩具，至今已经累积 3 千多件。他把所有收藏都陈列在他经营的咖啡馆里——The Toys Club，座落在 Ping River 东边河畔一条隐匿的街上。除了玩具，一起展出的还有一些复古电子游戏、广告牌和装饰品小玩意。
最值钱的收藏品都被收在吧台附近的一个玻璃展示柜里，包括他最稀有的物件：1980 年代早期全手工制作的“铁人 28 号”模型，是全世界仅仅 500 件的其一。“它们的价值会随着时间增加。”他解释道，“如果你还保留着原本的包装盒和原价标签，那就更好了。有时候这些玩具根本就没有拆开过，这让它们更值钱。”
Bird Trinniphat 经常去日本的玩具店、二手店、甚至是杂货店寻找收藏品，通常在大城市以外的地方会有更好的发现。近年来他开始在泰国本地挖宝，在缅甸和泰国边境的萨尔温江边的一个小镇里经常会有装满来自日本二手产品的集装箱。他说：“他们以公斤为单位批量销售商品。“有时候我会在成堆的货物中发现真正吸引人的宝物，其他人都不知道它们的价值。”
隐藏在 The Toys Club 后面一扇拉门背后的是日式黑胶酒吧 1st Press，这是 Bird Trinniphat 的最新计划，他与 24 岁的黑胶收藏家兼调酒师 Print Siwakorn 一起忠实再现了之前旅行途中经常拜访的日本地下酒馆的氛围。店内温馨迷人的空间收纳着老旧沙发座椅和令人叹为观止的黑胶唱片收藏，给人感觉就像待在朋友家的客厅一样亲切。
营业时间:
The Toy Club：周二到周六，早上 10 点到晚上 6 点
1st Press：周二到周六，下午 5 点到凌晨 12 点
地址:
46/1 San Pa Koi Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District
Stand Behind the Yellow Line
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A stone’s throw away from Chinatown is Stand Behind the Yellow Line, a garage that’s been converted into an antique shop by husband-and-wife duo Vorawan Lekvongderm and Sirat Assawachaipong. The name comes from the first iteration of their shop, which was opened in Bangkok beside an MTR station.
Inside the new Chiang Mai location, it feels like a hoarder’s paradise—with a wide variety of products filling every possible corner, ranging from kitchen appliances and religious artifacts to stationery goods and vintage posters. Even entire Disney VHS collections and Penthouse magazines featuring Pamela Anderson can be found for sale. It’s a nostalgia-inducing space, especially for kids who grew up in the late 1980s and 1990s.
Aside from the comprehensive collection of retro goods and antiques, the couple has also managed to find space to add a coffee shop and bar serving coffee, beer, and—for kids—Milo chocolate drink.
Hours:
Monday to Saturday, from 10 AM ~ 7PM
Vinyl bar is 5 PM ~ 10 PM
Address:
140 Chang Moi Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District
距离清迈中国城只有一步之遥的 Stand Behind the Yellow Line，是一家由 Vorawan Lekvongderm 和 Sirat Assawachipong 夫妻俩用车库改建而成的古董店，店名的灵感源自他们在曼谷的地铁站旁开的第一家商店。
清迈的新城区是收藏家的天堂，各式各样的物品琳琅满目，从厨房用具、宗教文物到文具用品和复古海报，甚至迪士尼所有的录影带、Pamela Anderson 担任封面模特的《阁楼杂志》都可以找到。这是一个引人怀旧的地方，特别是对于在 1980 到 1990 年代长大的那一代来说，更是如此。
除了展示数量繁多的中古物件和古董，这对夫妇还设法挤出了空间供应咖啡和啤酒，以及专为小孩子准备的美禄巧克力。
营业时间:
周一到周六，早上 10 点到晚上 7 点；黑胶酒吧是下午 5 点到晚上10 点
地址:
140 Chang Moi Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District
Den Souvenir
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Den Souvenir is a zine and art shop owned by Kitiwat Mattanapan that’s become a local hub for underground and graffiti artists and enthusiasts. More than a shop, it’s a space that encourages artistic collaboration.
Mattanapan also runs his own publishing house, the Den Publishing Group, curating zines featuring local and international artists. To support the creators, he bears the printing costs himself and sends half of the copies to the artists, wherever they are. He also owns a streetwear clothing label, with limited edition designs made in collaboration with local designers, which are also available for sale in the store
There’s a corner of the shop dedicated to pop-up exhibitions, which he hosts at least once a month. “In Chiang Mai, everybody knows each other in the art scene,” he says. “Still, it’s very diverse. Our store is one of the few enablers of collaboration. It goes beyond just selling stuff; we want to be like a meeting point for artists in Chiang Mai.”
Other parts of the shop are dedicated to miscellaneous souvenirs, including a collection of original 1980s Pattaya and Phuket caps with tropical prints or Memphis patterns. Scattered around the space, you can also find bootleg toys, political toy art, and miniatures with graffiti art painted by local artists.
Hours:
Friday to Wednesday, 1 PM ~ 6 PM
Address:
48 Chaiyapoom Rd, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District
Den Souvenir 是 Kitiwat Mattanpan 经营的一家杂志和艺术空间，现已成为当地涂鸦艺术家和地下文化爱好者的本营。它不仅仅是一个商店，更是一个激发艺术合作的场所。
Kitiwat Mattanapan 同时经营着自己的出版社 Den Publishing Group，策划当地和国外艺术家的独立手工杂志项目。为了支持创作者，他自愿承担印刷费用，并把一半的杂志都寄给艺术家，无论他们身在何方。他还拥有一个街头服装品牌，与当地设计师合作制作限量版设计服饰，商店里也有贩售。
店里有一处角落是专门保留给每月至少举办一次的快闪展览。他说：“在清迈的艺术界每个人都互相认识。”他说，“这里还是很多样化的，我们的商店是为数不多促成合作的媒介之一。不只是买卖，我们还想成为清迈艺术家的交集。”
商店也有出售各种各样的纪念品，包括一系列产自 80 年代芭堤雅、普吉岛热带图腾或孟斐斯图案的帽子。散落在其他角落，你还可以找到违禁玩具、带有政治意味的艺术古玩、以及由当地艺术家绘制的涂鸦微型模型。
营业时间:
周五到周三，下午 1 点到晚上 6 点
地址:
48 Chaiyapoom Rd, Tambon Si Phum, Mueang Chiang Mai District
Brewginning
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A few doors down from Den Souvenir, a group of friends opened Brewginning a little over one year ago in a mid-century modernist building. They were initially attracted by its street corner location, and have designed it to be a semi-open coffee shop; it can be difficult to distinguish where the street ends and the cafe begins, especially considering the minimal amount of seating.
A Chinese tailor previously occupied the building, and he ran his clothing shop on the ground floor and used the upper floor as his workshop. “We wanted to keep the original features of the building, so we only made small improvements. Most of it remains as it was, even the holes from hooks and hangers and the original color of the walls,” says Natdanai Sontinen, one of the founders.
The second floor has an open terrace and other multifunctional rooms, including the original bathroom, which doubles as a photo booth for events. On the walls, vestiges of old Chinese New Year couplets sit in contrast with art prints, cracked concrete, and exposed piping, forming a unique take on the derelict-industrial style.
Hours:
Daily, 7 AM ~ 7 PM.
Address:
260 Chang Moi Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Amphoe Mueang Chiang Mai
大约一年多前，就在 Den Souvenir 附近不远处的一座中期现代主义建筑里，一群好朋友来到这里联手开了一家名为 Brewginning 的咖啡厅。受到它独特的街角位置吸引，他们将它设计成一个半开放空间，座位数量极少，让人难以分辨清楚咖啡馆和街道的分界。
这座大楼先前是由一位中国裁缝所有，他在一楼开了一家服装店，楼上则是工作室。“我们想留下原有的特色，所以只做了一点小改动。大部分都保持原样，挂钩和衣架的钻洞、甚至是墙壁的颜色都没有改变。”创始人之一 Natdanai Sontinen 说道。
二楼有开放式露台和其他多用途空间，原先的浴室现在作为活动摄影棚。墙上还可见古老的中国新年对联，历史的痕迹与艺术版画、裂开的水泥和裸露的管线形成了鲜明的对比，形成了一种别具一格的废弃工业风。
营业时间:
每日营业，早上 7 点到晚上 7 点
地址:
260 Chang Moi Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Amphoe Mueang Chiang Mai
Lee On Ink
Students in uniforms eating cake with baby cutlery lounge about on mismatched furniture while tattooists, wearing gold-and-silver chains and all-black baggy clothes, ink equally edgy customers. That’s the vibe at Lee On Ink.
When Ponatip Suanphet, better known as Leeon, discovered an empty warehouse in a mostly residential area away from the old town, he saw it as the perfect space to expand his tattoo business and invited two other tattooists to join him. “When we moved here, people in the neighborhood were a bit suspicious, especially when we said it was a tattoo shop, but we showed them that everything runs peacefully,” he laughs. Lee On Ink is also located close to a Buddhist temple, which, in Thailand, means no alcohol or parties.
The space was so big that, even after they set up a workshop for the three tattoo artists, there was still a lot of unused real estate. “The coffee shop was a natural evolution since people who came to get tattoos often came with friends who had to wait,” Lee explains. While he’s tattooing, his girlfriend, Chamchuree Apiwong, runs the coffee shop; she’s also the operational manager.
The couple slowly furnished the space with cheap second-hand shops around Chiang Mai, “No money style,” as Lee puts it. The furniture collection grew into a mix of independent mid-century designs, with pieces ranging from a Noguchi coffee table to a Le Corbusier Cassina armchair, which sit next to 80s-era lounge sofas, geriatric infant furniture, and camping tables. It also follows an open floor plan, extending into a spacious yard with a gargantuan statue of the Loch Ness Monster.
Hours:
Friday to Wednesday, 2 PM ~ 8 PM
Address:
Prachautid Rd, Chang Phueak, Mueang Chiang Mai District
在风格混搭的家具旁，学生们穿着制服、举着儿童餐具吃蛋糕；而戴着粗项链、穿着黑色宽松上衣的纹身师正在为前卫的顾客刺入墨水——这就是 Lee On Ink 的氛围。
当 Ponatip Suanphet、或更常被称作 Leeon 在远离老城区的居民社区里发现一个空仓库时，他认为这是能拓展纹身业务的完美空间，他邀请了另外两位纹身师一起加入。他笑着说：“当初我们搬来这里的时候，附近的人都有点疑心，特别是听到这是一家纹身店。但我们向居民证明了一切都很平静。” Lee On Ink 位在一个佛教寺庙附近，这在泰国意味着没有酒精或派对。
因为空间实在太大了，即使为其他三位纹身师划分出专属工作区，仍然剩余很多闲置空间。“咖啡馆是一个自然的演变结果，因为来纹身的人往往是和朋友一起来的，他们不得坐在那里不等待。” Leeon 解释道。当他在纹身时，他的女朋友也是运营经理 Chamchuree Apiwong 则打理着咖啡厅。
这对情侣用在清迈周边廉价二手商店发现的物品，慢慢地布置装饰起这家店。正如 Leeon 所说，“这是一种叫’我们没钱’的风格”。店内累积的家具逐渐发展成为一个中期现代主义设计混合体，从野口勇闻名于世的 Noguchi 咖啡桌角茶几、到 Le Corbusier Cassina 扶手椅，旁边摆着 1980 年代的沙发、老家具和露营桌。它还有开放空间，延伸出一个宽敞的院子，里面有一尊巨大的尼斯湖水怪雕像。
营业时间:
周五到周三，下午 2 点到晚上 8 点
地址:
Prachautid Rd, Chang Phueak, Mueang Chiang Mai District
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Contributor: Tomas Pinheiro, Lucas Tinoco
Photographer: Nat Chittamai
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li
