Future Fashion 2089 年,我们应该穿什么?

January 9, 2019 2019年1月9日

Sci-fi is about more than dreaming up fictional worlds—it’s about creating a visual universe, a futuristic aesthetic for everything from sunglasses to satchels. And in an era of video-game marathons and binge-watching sessions, elements of these sci-fi-inspired styles are bound to bleed into the real world. Fashion inspired by the genre might even, like the best speculative fiction, offer subtle commentary on our technology-saturated society.

These are the roots of Guerrilla Group, a Taiwanese brand that draws inspiration from classic sci-fi games and films like Metal Gear Solid, Alien, and Akira, and then translates it into apparel for everyday use. Although some of the pieces might look more suitable for future-themed fashion editorials, most are functional for the street.   


所谓科幻世界,不仅仅是在杜撰一些虚无的幻想。它是在创造一个视觉化的世界观,一个涵盖所有——从你脸上的太阳眼镜到肩上的背包——的未来主义美学。在这一个充斥电玩游戏和追剧马拉松的时代,荧幕上的科幻元素必然会渗入现实世界。而受到此种风格启发的时尚,甚至可以说是科幻美学在现实中最理想的诠释,为科技无所不在的现代社会,提供了它细致又敏锐的见解。

这些都是吉丰重工(Guerrilla Group)的根源。这个来自台湾的时尚品牌从经典的科幻电影和电玩游戏如《合金装备》(Metal Gear Solid)、《异形》(Alien)、《阿基拉》(Akira)中汲取灵感,再转化成日常服饰。虽然部分作品看起来比较像是未来风格的装扮,但大多都是适用于现代的机能性街头穿着。

The brainchild of Andrew Chen and Anthony Bui, Guerrilla Group creates everything from detailed jackets and layered pants to form-fitting tees and cross-body satchels. The brand emphasizes distinctive but practical materials, such as high-modulus polyethylene, lyocell, and transparent leather. The last of these is so new, in fact, that the producers won’t even tell them how it’s made. It’s stuff you rarely see but want to see more of.


吉丰重工的创办人 Andrew Chen 和 Anthony Bui 将创意发挥在几乎所有穿得到的用品上,从富含细节的夹克、分层裤、到合身 T 恤和斜背包。该品牌强调使用有特点但实用的材料,如高模量聚乙烯、Lyocell 纤维,或是透明皮革——一种太过新兴的材料,以至于制造商甚至不愿意告诉他们制作方法。这是一个你几乎看不到、但渴望看到更多的东西。

Beyond their affinity for unusual materials, Guerrilla Group sets itself apart from other brands through its “storytelling” approach to fashion. Every new collection starts with a concept that’s then fleshed out with a story and visualized in a lookbook.


除了常用不寻常的材料,吉丰重工的特别之处还有通过“讲故事”的方式,将自己与其他时尚品牌区分开来。每一个系列都会从一个概念出发,然后用故事去充实其内容,最终视觉化呈现在品牌书中。

The stories crafted by Chen and Bui are rooted in fiction but take cues from the real world, and more often than not, they contain implicit social critique that confronts issues such as military fetishization and invasive authority. “A lot of our collections are actually trying to send a message of warning,” Chen says. “Like our End Of Secrecy line, which is based on PRISM, the American internet surveillance program. We’re addressing how governments control your information.”


Andrew 和 Anthony 创造的故事通常是虚构的,但之中隐含着他们从现实中获取的线索,并悄悄植入批判社会的暗喻,比如说军事狂热化、或威权体制的入侵等问题。 “事实上我们有很多作品是在试图发出警告。” Andrew 说。“像是《End of Secrecy》系列是发想自美国互联网监控计划‘棱镜门’(PRISM)。我们想诉求的对象是正在控制你的信息的政府。”

As of late, the brand is starting to move away from the sci-fi aesthetics that defined its early years. One of its recently released satchels was based on Buddhist monk sling bags—though since it’s made of an experimental transparent material made by Ecco Leather, it still resembles something extraterrestrial.


最近,吉丰重工的设计风格开始驶离早期的科幻美学。品牌最近发布的一个背包的原型是僧侣的吊带包——并由 Ecco Leather 生产的实验性透明皮革材料所制成,外观容易让人联想到异星世界的产物。

A more significant departure from the brand’s sci-fi and techwear roots is a new line based on street racing. Inspired by old auto magazines, Japanese car mods, and manga comics, this collection revolves around a fictional auto body shop called Silent Works. Their campaign even includes three real-life customized cars, including a Nissan 240SX.


一个基于街头赛车的新系列,更让该品牌远离了其科幻与机能的设计根源。灵感来自于旧的汽车杂志、日本汽车改装和漫画,此系列围绕着一个名为 Silent Works 的虚构汽车车身店。他们甚至还设计了三款真实定制车型,包括一辆 Nissan 240SX。

Guerrilla Group’s elaborate concepts and graphics-heavy designs hint at Chen and Bui’s ambitions beyond fashion. “Neither of us studied fashion design,” Chen notes. “Anthony was a graphic designer and I studied Art Design. This brand was actually my graduate thesis topic.” The duo ultimately hopes to operate a full-fledged creative agency under the banner Guerrilla Foundation for International Recon Media Group, or GFIRMG. They plan on expanding into film, product design, and visual design, and no matter the medium, they want to tell stories that meaningfully engage with a changing world.


吉丰重工精心设计的概念和图像暗示着 Andrew 和 Anthony 超越时尚的野心。 “我们都没有学过时装设计。”Andrew 说。 “Anthony 是一名平面设计师,而我学的是艺术设计。这个品牌实际上是我的毕业论文题目。”二人最终希望在吉丰重工(Guerrilla Foundation for International Recon Media Group, 简称 GFIRMG)的旗帜下运营一个成熟的创意机构。他们还计划扩展到电影、产品和视觉设计。无论媒介为何,他们都想继续讲述有意义的、与这个不断变化的世界互动的故事。

Website: www.guerrilla-group.co
Facebook: ~/guerrilla-group.co
Instagram: @guerrillagroup_co

 

Contributor: Mike Steyels
Chinese Translation: Yang Yixuan


网站: www.guerrilla-group.co
脸书: ~/guerrilla-group.co
Instagram: @guerrillagroup_co

 

供稿人: Mike Steyels
英译中: Yang Yixuan

You Might Also Like你可能会喜欢