Power, Death, and Desire 皮の相

September 18, 2020 2020年9月18日



In China, a country with relatively conservative values, many women opt to not dress too suggestively. But leatherwear designer Miss G (whose given name is Jiang Yuji), believes this should no longer be the case. With her skintight leather garments, Jiang harnesses the carnal, primitive power of female sexuality in a tangible form—but she’s not done there. Her own body often serves as an auxiliary canvas, on which her finished leather creations add the finishing strokes—faint red welts and scratches that stipple her barren skin. “If flesh and blood can be seen as semi-fluid matters, then lingerie can be thought of as a mold that gives form to a woman’s inner self,” she says.

“如果把血肉之躯看做半流动的实体,内衣则塑造自己想看到的灵魂。 ”

这是 Miss G(蒋雨霁)对“皮”与“相”的态度。身处在一个意识形态相对保守的国家,女子的一身“皮相”无论再美,好似都不能被张扬显摆出来,否则就会有种卖弄之嫌。但 Miss G 并不这么看。她展现女性掌控欲望的方式充满着野性与诱惑——玉体横陈,而皮具坚硬,在玲珑的胴体上勒出浅浅的红痕。Miss G 并不仅仅享受穿戴的过程,她更是这些皮具内衣的设计者。

Leather holds a special place in Jiang’s heart.

Whether it be the smell, texture, or its surface temperature, the material always leaves her wanting for more. She’s tried other approaches to express her sexual desires, including kinabaku and roleplay, but nothing has compared with the feeling of leather on skin.

“I love how it feels on my body,” she says. “There’s a tangible vitality. The scent of the leather, the friction of it against your skin, and the subtle sounds that it makes when it’s worn all make it feel like you’re in communion with the animal’s spirit. It’s beautiful.”


Miss G 承认这种材质独特的气味、质地、温度,让她欲罢不能。一路走来,她和许多人一起探索过性的欢愉,绳艺捆绑、角色扮演,但都不及皮贴上皮的感受,这让她兴奋也让她战栗——“我很喜欢皮在身上的感觉。”她说,“这能让我感受到生命的力量。它的味道、还有你在触碰他时候的那种摩擦力,还有你在穿戴它时候,发出细微的那种声响。感觉像是灵魂在对你窃窃私语,非常美妙。 

Jiang believes unique bonds are developed between leather and leatherworker, and she attributes this connection to her idea that the material represents power and death. With each incision across the tough material, the animal’s original essence can be felt despite it having long been deceased. Whether it’s cutting out shapes, burnishing the edges, or punching rivet holes, the artisanal process she works with feels incredibly intimate to Jiang. “By designing it and then wearing it on my own body, it feels like I’m giving the animal a second life,” she says.

皮具的穿戴者很容易对这种材质产生惺惺相惜之感,Miss G 道破了她对其的执念所在:力量与死亡。因为牛皮自身蕴含的韧度,在处理它的时候,下刀切割的人可以感受到这种生命的活力。无论是切割形状、打磨边缘,还是冲压铆钉孔,这一系列手工过程都让她感觉亲密异常。“通过对皮的重新塑造,再穿戴到身上的时候,又感觉自己赋予它了时间和灵魂。”Miss G 说道。

Under the prudent eye of modern society, where female sexuality is often kept on the hush, you might expect a woman such as Jiang—who isn’t afraid of baring her body and sexual inhibitions for all to see—to draw scrutiny and criticism. But even then, she believes that there’s no reason to shy away from these topics. In fact, she sees Chinese society as rather accepting of these non-traditional methods of expression, in that there is a general indifference towards it. This leeway has given her ample room to experiment and be herself.  “People won’t praise you, but nor will they shun you,” she says.

那么在一个充斥着对女性条条束缚的社会中,真实展露自己身体的年轻女性,可能不感到疏离和羞耻吗?坦诚面对自己的性欲、性向、性力量,对任何人来说都是一道不小的难题。而 Miss G 并不这么认为。她恰恰觉得中华文明圈在这方面是“包容”的,“这种包容表现为无所谓,既不压抑,也不赞颂”,但这给予了她足够大的空间去体验和探索。

The older she’s gotten, her own body and the bodies of others have become something of a fixation. Her curiosity has led to many creative breakthroughs, and today, she’s fully confident in her body and sensuality. “When I was growing up, I felt that some parts of my body were ugly, and I’d stare at my reflection in the mirror in the shower,” she says. “I feel completely comfortable with nudity now, and it can feel relaxing or empowering even. I can be who I want to be, and show the world my true self.” In this regard, as much as she’s reshaping the leather she creates with, it’s also, in a way, reshaped her.


Leather has long been linked with BDSM culture, but Jiang aspires to pivot away from those associations. Instead, she’s keen on using her designs to tap into larger concepts around modern femininity. “Leather can call to mind the dark corners of desire, thoughts that don’t see the light of day,” she says. “But I don’t think it should stay that way. I want to shine a light on what leather can represent, and let people know that you can wear what you want to wear.”

Jiang’s leather garments are typically designed with her own body and expressive goals in mind, but she also envisions them being worn by different women. She believes that, on different bodies, her leatherwear can even take on different meanings that are personal to the wearer.

皮具的赋权文化多都来自 BDSM,与之关联的还有捆绑、闺房、地下室……但 Miss G 渴望去理解和扮演更复杂的女性角色。“皮很容易让人想到一些那些藏在黑暗角落的、情欲的东西,见不得光。但是我觉得没有必要一直这样埋藏下去,你可以正视它、穿上它。”Miss G 说。


In the end, raised eyebrows towards her designs and preferences of self-expression are of little concern. “How people want to view my leather creations is their own business,” Jiang shrugs. “I just want people to try different things. It’s like sex—you only know what you like once you’ve tried it.”

至于别人的眼光就不重要了,“别人怎么看皮,那是别人的事情,我只是希望大家可以多试一些不同的东西。就好像你的性取向,你喜欢什么,试过才知道。”Miss G 莞尔笑道。

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Instagram: @missingmissg


Contributor: Chen Yuan
Photographer: David Yen
Videographers: Paul Gardette, Damien Louise

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Instagram: @missingmissg


供稿人: Chen Yuan
摄影师: David Yen
视频师: Paul Gardette, Damien Louise