Tactical Apparel 时尚与机能只能二择一?

October 29, 2018 2018年10月29日

When functional clothing becomes fashionable, it often takes on a new meaning. Skate sneakers, army fatigues, surf wear: all these were designed for a specific purpose but went on to find a much larger market. This is a fact that Feng Chen, the co-founder of Taiwanese label 4dimension, is well aware of. His company designs clothing to be sturdy, protective, and versatile—but how it’s used is up to the wearer.

功能性服装不一定只关乎用途,时尚也可以是它的一种含义。比如滑板鞋、军装、冲浪服这类服饰,最初都是为了满足特定目的而设计,后来都逐渐拓展出更大的客群。关于这一点,台湾知名机能品牌 4dimension 主理人陈丰,有着深刻的体悟。4dimension 服装结实耐穿,不仅具备防护作用,还拥有多功能的设计,穿戴者可以自由掌握其用途与功能。

“We think good material is the cornerstone of a brand. We do the research and pick materials we want by specific function—such as waterproof, fast-dry, or ripstop fabrics—then build our design on these functions,” explains Chen.

4dimension creates pieces that offer multiple options, like their recent bag collaboration with streetwear powerhouse Kith. One pack can be worn around the waist or flipped around and slung over the shoulder. Pockets and pouches are created specifically for various devices and gadgets, and although most people won’t need all of them, they’re functional—and Chen views function itself as a form of beauty. “We do not do excessive design,” he says. “Everything from the fabric down to the details is based on the concept of ‘less is more,’ and is meant to maximize function with the least design.”

“我们相信,优质的原料是品牌的基石。我们会先做研究,根据不同功能来挑选出我们想要的面料,譬如是防水、快干或防撕裂面料,然后在这些功能点之上,再进行设计。” 陈丰解释说。

4dimension 的产品以多功能用途着称,比如他们最近与街头时尚品牌 Kith 合作的包袋系列。同一款包袋,既可以佩戴在腰上,也可以单肩斜挎。其中还有为各种设备和工具专门设计的隔层和小袋,虽然大多数人不会全部用上,但它们是有功能性的。在陈丰眼里看来,功能本身就是一种美的形式。“我们不会做过于复杂的设计。” 他说,“从面料到细节的设计,一切都遵循 ‘少即是多’ 的理念,目的是在最简单的设计之上,最大限度地提供最丰富的功能。”

Direct inspiration comes from tactical gear—clothing originally made for military purposes. 4dimension’s modular bags are based on the MOLLE system, an acronym for modular lightweight load-carrying equipment.

Of course, 4dimension’s garments aren’t made for black ops or mountaineering missions, but good design can make urban life much more comfortable, especially given Taiwan’s climate. “Taiwan is an island, so the weather here is always unpredictable,” says Chen. “This drives us to think about what kind of clothes we design. We combine the street culture we love with the functional wear we need.”

品牌设计的灵感来源于军用服装。4dimension 的模块化手袋是基于战术装备的 MOLLE 系统(Modular Lightweight Load-Carrying Equipment),即模块化承载系统设计的。

当然,4dimension 的服装不是专为秘密行动或户外登山而设计,而是旨在通过设计,让穿戴者在城市中更舒适地生活,尤其是在台湾这样气候的地方。“台湾是一座小岛,这里的天气总是变幻莫测。” 陈丰说,“这促使我们去思考应该设计什么样的衣服,将能够满足实用需求的功能性服装,与我们所热爱的街头文化相结合。”

Not only does Taiwan’s climate influence the brand’s designs, but its textile industry also plays a role. Having high-quality, low-priced materials close at hand has made it easy for the company to grow. When Chen and his business partner, Kevin Lim, wanted to move beyond their limited initial offerings, they didn’t have to look far. “We can’t afford custom-made fabric from a supplier,” says Chen, “but we can find the material we need in the fabric market right here in Taipei.”

影响品牌设计的不仅只有台湾的气候,当地纺织行业也起到了重要作用。能就近从当地获得高品质却低价的材料,这一点有助于公司获得发展。当陈丰和合作伙伴林禹丞 (Kevin) 想进一步发展产品线时,他们不必到其它地方去寻找原料。“我们买不起来自供应商的定制面料,但是我们可以在台北的面料市场就找到我们需要的材料。” 陈丰说道。

Although 4dimension can be categorized as tech wear or streetwear, Chen sees no need for labels: “The internet has broken the rules people used to rely on. There are no boundaries. Designers and brands can do anything they want.”


虽然 4dimension 可以同时被归类为机能服装品牌(Tech Wear)和街头时尚品牌,但陈丰觉得没有必要为品牌贴上标签:“互联网打破了人们过去依赖的规则。这里没有界线,设计师和品牌可以做他们想要做的一切。”



Contributor: Mike Steyels



供稿人: Mike Steyels

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