Whether we’re broadcasting on social media or captured by closed-circuit cameras, we’re always being watched. How do we act when we know there’s always an audience?
This is the theme of RECONSCIOUS, the SS20 collection from fashion designer Ximon Lee, released under his eponymous fashion label. Now that social media allow us to seek attention and validation from friends and strangers, Lee asks whether the images we show online are our true selves.
当代社会,无论在社交媒体上还是在监控设备下,人们的一举一动都被他人注视。而面对无处不在的 “观众”,人们的注意力反而成为媒体争相抢夺的稀缺资源,在这样的情况下,我们究竟该怎么办?
设计师 Ximon Lee 将这一主题贯穿在 2020 年春夏系列 “RECONSCIOUS” 当中,并由他的同名品牌 XIMONLEE 推出。Lee 认为,社交媒体、镜头既然能够帮助我们获得更多来自朋友和陌生人的关注,那我们在线上的形象是真实还是虚假的呢?
At the recent runway show for the new collection, Lee brought this question into sharp relief by installing surveillance equipment throughout the space and broadcasting the audience’s every move and gesture on screens in real-time. As attendees watched the show, the cameras were watching them. Models filed past in crushed velvet, delicate knits, cold metal, and glossy leather, showing off flawless silhouettes. Vibrant reds popped out of the otherwise restrained palette, while blurry black-and-white designs evoked the oversized surveillance footage playing on the screens behind them. Beyond his materials and colors, Lee’s distinctive textures give this series a bewitching luxurious quality.
在本季秀场里,Ximon 将这一思考呈现出来——秀场内各个角落都安放了监控设备,将人们的一举一动即时转播在不同屏幕上。当在座嘉宾观看走秀的同时,镜头也在盯着他们看。模特们一身利落穿行其间,无论是压碎的天鹅绒、细腻的针织、闪亮的皮革还是冰冷的的金属,无不精细考究地勾勒出身体的形态,节制的色彩应用使得那抹鲜红的出现如油画高光一般令人兴奋。低清的黑白印花元素引人联想至那些巨大的实时画面。而在材质与色彩之外,Ximon 一如既往的独创性面料更额外为整个系列添上一些神秘的高级质感。
所有这些元素结合在一起,在凝视与被凝视间碰撞再生。
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Website: ximonlee.com
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