Tag Archives: fashion

Memes, Refashioned

There’s no obstacle in life that can’t be overcome with a genuine smile. But even in the hardest of times, a polite, insincere grin (even an awkward one) can still make do. On this premise, a meme was born.

If you have any investments in the meme economy, then you’ve probably heard the name Gavin Thomas. Best known as the “boy with the fake smile,” the eight-year-old American has gone viral worldwide. His hilariously insincere expression has garnered him huge followings on Instagram and Weibo alike. Just six short months after joining the latter, he’s already won over millions of followers, and many Chinese netizens are even hailing him as “world-class meme material.”

Recently, Chinese fashion label BIZZCUT released a line of products with the boy (or rather the meme) himself. It includes hoodies, iPhone cases, blankets, and even mousepads. Named auspiciously with the upcoming Chinese New Year in mind, the Peace and Prosperity collection pairs Thomas’s iconic fake smile with vibrant colors and bold Chinese characters, showing that memes can live beyond our device screens and find a place in the real world.

BIZZCUT was launched in 2014 and is run by a small but dedicated team made up of two fashion designers, a design assistant, a graphic designer, and a three-man operations department. We recently interviewed Da Yao, a graduate of Italy’s Istituto Marangoni and the founder of BIZZCUT, about her newly released designs and the challenges of running an independent brand in China.


如果你是关注网络文化的潮流青年,那么你一定知道这个红遍大江南北的假笑男孩Gavin Thomas。从 Instagram 火到微博,他的粉丝量在注册短短半年内就突破百万大军,堪称世界级的网红表情包。

最近,国潮品牌 BIZZCUT别闹联手腔调假笑男孩本人联名合作,出了包括卫衣、手机壳、毛毯和鼠标垫等等一系列周边,并为了呼应即将到来的中国新年,这个系列取了个非常讨喜的名字:平安富贵Gavin 标志性的假笑,配上大量鲜艳的色彩和硕大醒目的中文字,让原来活在手机里的假笑表情包,比起不正经来,更多了点酷。

我们采访了 BIZZCUT 的主理人大妖,毕业于意大利马戈兰尼设计学院(Istituto Marangoni)服装设计系的她,于 2014 年创立了这个品牌。现在的团队已经有另一个服装设计师、一个设计助理和一个平面设计师,和三人的运营团队。

Neocha: BIZZCUT’s Gavin Thomas collection draws on the aesthetics of memes; it’s a large departure from the approach of other domestic fashion brands. How did this idea come about? What was it like working with him?

Da Yao: When someone from Taobao Kongdiao (a fashion-focused platform run by the Chinese e-commerce behemoth) approached us about doing a collection with the “fake smile boy,” I was on board immediately. I’m a fan of Gavin myself, and I often use his sticker memes on WeChat. It felt like something in tune with the spirit of our brand, so everything just happened quite organically. It was a smooth process overall. Gavin and his mom approved our initial drafts right off the bat. It felt like we were on the same wavelength, so it was quite enjoyable working together.

Neocha: BIZZCUT “假笑男孩系列的产品有着浓浓的表情包风格,和一般国潮牌不太一样。是什么促成了这个系列的诞生?和假笑男孩的合作过程是怎样的?

大妖: 当时淘宝腔调的小二来问我们愿不愿意做一个合作款,得知是和假笑男孩合作我们毫不犹豫就答应了。因为我自己也是 Gavin 的粉丝,平时聊天也常会用他的表情。同时他的气质和我们品牌调性挺契合的,所以合作自然达成了。过程也非常顺利,我们提交初稿的时候就得到了 Gavin 和他妈妈的认可,可以说是一拍即合,非常愉快。

Neocha: What do you think are the primary reasons young people are drawn to your brand?

Da Yao: Maybe it’s our design philosophy. Compared to other brands, we don’t take ourselves that seriously. We enjoy making designs around self-deprecating humor. People are under a lot of stress nowadays, so a dose of quirky, offbeat humor resonates with them. Another thing is our perspective of what’s “cool”: Every brand wants to talk about being cool. To us, being cool is about exuding confidence. In other words, being “cool” in your own eyes is what’s most important. We hope that our products can help give people this type of self-confidence.

Neocha: 你觉得 BIZZCUT 能够吸引这些年轻人最重要的原因是什么?

大妖: 可能是我们的设计态度吧。相比较很多品牌我们可能显得没那么严肃和正经。就是说我们会用比较自嘲的方式去做设计,现在人生活工作压力都很大,所以一些出其不意、搞怪幽默的设计就会让很多人有共鸣。还有就是我们对酷的看法:每个品牌都在谈论酷,而事实上真正的酷首先是一种由内而外的自信,也就是自以为酷很重要。我们希望自己的产品能给大家这样的自信。

Neocha: What are some of the brand’s underpinning design philosophies and inspirations?

Da Yao: It all starts with me thinking about whether it’s something I personally like—otherwise it’ll never hit the shelves. Secondly, it needs to fall in line with the brand of humor we’re known for. I like design that makes use of pop art; mainstream culture is also something that needs to be considered. After all, being a designer means staying open-minded. It’s about finding a balance between your own aesthetic preferences and what speaks to the masses.

Neocha: 在做设计的时候,你们的态度和出发点是什么?

大妖: 出发点是我首先自己很喜欢的单品才会上架售卖。其次就是符合我们品牌幽默有趣的定位,一些波普感的设计是我比较喜欢感兴趣的,至于大众文化潮流我觉得也很有参考的必要,毕竟作为设计师还是要有一个开放的姿态去做设计,从个人审美趣味和大众喜好之间寻求平衡吧。

Neocha: It’s been a few years since BIZZCUT was founded, and the brand has built a large following of dedicated fans. During this time, what are some the most difficult struggles and challenges you’ve faced?

Da Yao: The biggest risks we took thus far were our releases for the second half of 2018. We tried out some more serious designs, but the reception was lukewarm. It helped us realize that our audience still enjoys how we bring happiness with simple, unsullied humor. But we’re now back on track. This process provided us with a lot of clarity.

Neocha: BIZZCUT 从诞生到现在也有好几个年头了,目前也吸引了一大批忠实粉丝。但这个过程中你们有碰到过独立品牌好险差点没活过来这样的情况吗?

大妖: 最险的基本就是 2018 后半年吧,做了一些比较严肃正经的尝试,结果不是很理想,后来发现大家还是喜欢简单和纯粹的快乐,现在基本回到正轨了,这个过程中自我认知也清晰了许多。

Neocha: Once a brand becomes overly commercialized, it can leave a bad taste in people’s mouths. How do you strike a balance between an authentic independent spirit and being profit-oriented?

Da Yao: Commercialization isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Good business practice means getting more than what you’ve invested, and I think having an entrepreneur mindset is important for designers. We’re not artists. Design is intrinsically linked with marketing. That said, we still strive to strike a balance between mass appeal and our independent spirit. I consider this to be the most interesting part of being a designer—it requires an equilibrium between business acumen and artistic sensibilities.

Neocha: 很多品牌一旦走上商业化,年轻用户就会显得抗拒。你们在独立设计和商业化两者之间,是怎么权衡的?

大妖: 商业化不是一件坏事,商业规则要求一个基本的水平线以上的投资回报率。我觉得商业规则对设计师来说很重要,我们不是艺术家,设计的根本也是为了销售,在这个过程中我们一直在努力平衡独立设计和大众趣味的关系,我觉得这也是设计师这个职业比较有趣的一点——它需要商业嗅觉和艺术品味相结合。

Neocha: What do you think the most important qualities are for an independent brand?

Da Yao: The most important thing is the “independent” aspect of it naturally. Something we constantly remind ourselves comes from a quote by Hu Shih: “What is independence? Independence is following your heart. If you’re free but not independent, then you’re a slave. Independence means not being blind, not being duped, not imitating others, and not relying on others. It means not trusting what you hear second-hand, not trusting thoughts that aren’t your own, and not trusting vicarious experiences relayed by someone else. This the spirit of independence.”

In other words, it’s important to not blindly follow trends.

Neocha: 你觉得对一个独立设计品牌来说,最重要的特点或品质应该是什么?

大妖: 最重要的特点当然是独立啦。引用一段我一直用来提醒自己的话吧,胡适先生讲的:什么是独立呢?‘独立是你们自己的事,给你自由而不独立这是奴隶,独立要不盲从,不受欺骗,不依傍门户,不依赖别人,不用别人耳朵为耳朵,不以别人的脑子为脑子,不用别人的眼睛为眼睛,这就是独立的精神。


Neocha: How would you describe the BIZZCUT attitude in one single word?

Da Yao: Humorous.

Neocha: 用一个词总结形容“别闹”的调性,你会用?

大妖: 幽默。

Neocha: Aside from your online shop and brick-and-mortar retail location, you’ve recently opened a space for hosting events and exhibitions. Why this expansion?

Da Yao: This space is something new for us. There aren’t long-term goals for it. It’s just a place where we can meet and chat with guests, a place where we can share our design philosophy with people. At the same time, we do plan on hosting events catered to people looking for fun things to do.

Neocha: 除了线上线下店之外,你们最近还开了一个空间,可以举办各种艺术活动之类的。为什么想要开拓线下活动空间?

大妖: 那个空间也是一个新的尝试吧,也不算一个长期的规划,就是想找个地方招待一下一直以来想和我们见面聊天的顾客,然后让他们更加了解我们的设计态度,同时伴随一些有趣的活动,让大家找到一个好玩的去处。

Neocha: What can we expect from BIZZCUT in the future?

Da Yao: Surviving is high on our list of priorities. Refining our products and coming up with more thoughtful designs is also very important. We’d also like to work with some shopping centers and media platforms to do a pop-up store. Aside from these things, we’ll be putting out a premium collaborative projects once every year.

Neocha: 对未来别闹的发展,你有什么计划?

大妖: 未来发展的话,先是活下去吧。然后把产品的品质更优,设计更成熟一点吧。也会和一些媒体和商场合作做一些 Pop-up Store,还有就是每年做一次优质的联名款。

Taobao: bizzcut.taobao.com
Instagram: @bizzcut_official


Contributor: Chen Yuan
English Translation: David Yen

淘宝: bizzcut.taobao.com
Instagram: @bizzcut_official


供稿人: Chen Yuan
中译英: David Yen

Future Fashion

Sci-fi is about more than dreaming up fictional worlds—it’s about creating a visual universe, a futuristic aesthetic for everything from sunglasses to satchels. And in an era of video-game marathons and binge-watching sessions, elements of these sci-fi-inspired styles are bound to bleed into the real world. Fashion inspired by the genre might even, like the best speculative fiction, offer subtle commentary on our technology-saturated society.

These are the roots of Guerrilla Group, a Taiwanese brand that draws inspiration from classic sci-fi games and films like Metal Gear Solid, Alien, and Akira, and then translates it into apparel for everyday use. Although some of the pieces might look more suitable for future-themed fashion editorials, most are functional for the street.   


这些都是吉丰重工(Guerrilla Group)的根源。这个来自台湾的时尚品牌从经典的科幻电影和电玩游戏如《合金装备》(Metal Gear Solid)、《异形》(Alien)、《阿基拉》(Akira)中汲取灵感,再转化成日常服饰。虽然部分作品看起来比较像是未来风格的装扮,但大多都是适用于现代的机能性街头穿着。

The brainchild of Andrew Chen and Anthony Bui, Guerrilla Group creates everything from detailed jackets and layered pants to form-fitting tees and cross-body satchels. The brand emphasizes distinctive but practical materials, such as high-modulus polyethylene, lyocell, and transparent leather. The last of these is so new, in fact, that the producers won’t even tell them how it’s made. It’s stuff you rarely see but want to see more of.

吉丰重工的创办人 Andrew Chen 和 Anthony Bui 将创意发挥在几乎所有穿得到的用品上,从富含细节的夹克、分层裤、到合身 T 恤和斜背包。该品牌强调使用有特点但实用的材料,如高模量聚乙烯、Lyocell 纤维,或是透明皮革——一种太过新兴的材料,以至于制造商甚至不愿意告诉他们制作方法。这是一个你几乎看不到、但渴望看到更多的东西。

Beyond their affinity for unusual materials, Guerrilla Group sets itself apart from other brands through its “storytelling” approach to fashion. Every new collection starts with a concept that’s then fleshed out with a story and visualized in a lookbook.


The stories crafted by Chen and Bui are rooted in fiction but take cues from the real world, and more often than not, they contain implicit social critique that confronts issues such as military fetishization and invasive authority. “A lot of our collections are actually trying to send a message of warning,” Chen says. “Like our End Of Secrecy line, which is based on PRISM, the American internet surveillance program. We’re addressing how governments control your information.”

Andrew 和 Anthony 创造的故事通常是虚构的,但之中隐含着他们从现实中获取的线索,并悄悄植入批判社会的暗喻,比如说军事狂热化、或威权体制的入侵等问题。 “事实上我们有很多作品是在试图发出警告。” Andrew 说。“像是《End of Secrecy》系列是发想自美国互联网监控计划‘棱镜门’(PRISM)。我们想诉求的对象是正在控制你的信息的政府。”

As of late, the brand is starting to move away from the sci-fi aesthetics that defined its early years. One of its recently released satchels was based on Buddhist monk sling bags—though since it’s made of an experimental transparent material made by Ecco Leather, it still resembles something extraterrestrial.

最近,吉丰重工的设计风格开始驶离早期的科幻美学。品牌最近发布的一个背包的原型是僧侣的吊带包——并由 Ecco Leather 生产的实验性透明皮革材料所制成,外观容易让人联想到异星世界的产物。

A more significant departure from the brand’s sci-fi and techwear roots is a new line based on street racing. Inspired by old auto magazines, Japanese car mods, and manga comics, this collection revolves around a fictional auto body shop called Silent Works. Their campaign even includes three real-life customized cars, including a Nissan 240SX.

一个基于街头赛车的新系列,更让该品牌远离了其科幻与机能的设计根源。灵感来自于旧的汽车杂志、日本汽车改装和漫画,此系列围绕着一个名为 Silent Works 的虚构汽车车身店。他们甚至还设计了三款真实定制车型,包括一辆 Nissan 240SX。

Guerrilla Group’s elaborate concepts and graphics-heavy designs hint at Chen and Bui’s ambitions beyond fashion. “Neither of us studied fashion design,” Chen notes. “Anthony was a graphic designer and I studied Art Design. This brand was actually my graduate thesis topic.” The duo ultimately hopes to operate a full-fledged creative agency under the banner Guerrilla Foundation for International Recon Media Group, or GFIRMG. They plan on expanding into film, product design, and visual design, and no matter the medium, they want to tell stories that meaningfully engage with a changing world.

吉丰重工精心设计的概念和图像暗示着 Andrew 和 Anthony 超越时尚的野心。 “我们都没有学过时装设计。”Andrew 说。 “Anthony 是一名平面设计师,而我学的是艺术设计。这个品牌实际上是我的毕业论文题目。”二人最终希望在吉丰重工(Guerrilla Foundation for International Recon Media Group, 简称 GFIRMG)的旗帜下运营一个成熟的创意机构。他们还计划扩展到电影、产品和视觉设计。无论媒介为何,他们都想继续讲述有意义的、与这个不断变化的世界互动的故事。

Website: www.guerrilla-group.co
Facebook: ~/guerrilla-group.co
Instagram: @guerrillagroup_co


Contributor: Mike Steyels
Chinese Translation: Yang Yixuan

网站: www.guerrilla-group.co
脸书: ~/guerrilla-group.co
Instagram: @guerrillagroup_co


供稿人: Mike Steyels
英译中: Yang Yixuan

What’s the Point in Growing Up?



Born in Taipei, having studied in Milan, and now based in Shanghai, Ning (aka Kang Yung-Ning) is a designer and entrepreneur whose intercultural experiences have broadened her mind and shaped her creative interests. In the past, she’s found success as a high-end menswear designer, stylist consultant, and lecturer. In more recent years, she co-founded XSPLUSLAB, an eyewear brand designed specifically for kids, and Speechless, an online fashion and lifestyle platform. Eager to learn and experiment, Ning’s career path has been a path filled with many twists and turns. Even now, it’s difficult to define her job roles and responsibilities, which might change on a day to day basis. She sums everything up by simply saying, “It’s a bit complicated!”

生于台北,留学米兰,现在长居于上海的 Ning(康韵宁) 形容自己是一位专业“不务正业”的跨文化人士。除了担任一线品牌的男装设计师、造型顾问和学院讲师之外,她还创办了儿童眼镜品牌 XSPLUSLAB 以及时尚创意平台 Speechless。当被问及怎么定位自己的时候,Ning 的反应是,“哇,这很复杂,实在一言难尽!

Despite her cross-disciplinary interests, Ning has been able to balance all of her creative and entrepreneurial pursuits. Unsurprisingly, when asked what she would prioritize to if she had to choose between her personal life and work life, Ning went with the latter. But she admits, it’s often difficult for her to determine where one ends and the other begins. “I discover inspiration for my work everywhere in life,” she says. “It might come from spotting a row of interesting buildings, a particular floor tile, how random colors interact with one another, graffiti art on the street, or even a fallen leaf.”

在不同领域间游走,天秤座的她也形容自己是一个很平衡的人,尽管有很多不同的身份,也能尽量让这些角色达到彼此平衡,并且每个工作都全力以赴。如果要工作与生活二选一,Ning 毫不迟疑地选择工作,原因是她认为做自己喜欢的事,工作也像生活一样。她喜欢四处搜集与流行,时尚,艺术及生活相关的资讯。“生活中大大小小的事物都能为我带来灵感,走在路上看到一排特殊的建筑,路上的一块砖头,不同的色彩搭配,墙角的一个涂鸦,甚至是一片落叶,都能带给我灵感。”

In early 2016, Ning met Vic, an eyewear designer. At the time, Ning worked full-time as a menswear designer. But the two had a mutual interest in using their respective expertise to create something fun for kids; this resulted in the idea of designing playful eyewear for children. To their surprise, the project – initially created just for fun – received an overwhelming amount of positive feedback. This success would sow the seeds for the two to launch XSPLUSLAB not long after. Their vision for the brand is simple – create eyewear for stylish kids and adults with a child-like sense of wonder. But aside from simply designing glasses, Ning aims to communicate an underlying message of “Never grow up.” She hopes the brand can help foster creativity in the youth and inspire people of all ages to live their life without constraints.

2016 年初,Ning 碰到了她现在儿童眼镜品牌的合作伙伴 Vic,那时的 Ning 以从事男装设计的工作为主,而 Vic 是个很资深的眼镜设计师。因为两人对于小朋友的生活方式有着共同的想法,他们以做着玩的心态设计制作了一些儿童眼镜,没想到反响非常好。此后,两人就将这个概念发展为了现在的 XSPLUSLAB,一个专为有自我主见的酷小孩和童心未泯的有趣大人设计眼镜和配饰的原创品牌。而制造眼镜之外,Ning 也更想将这种“不想长大”的生活态度传递出来,和大家分享勇敢创新、充满创意的生活方式。

Aside from XSPLUSLAB, a large portion of Ning’s time is dedicated towards Speechless, an online platform that curates a collection of quirky lifestyle and fashion-related stories. “On one particularly hot day, when I was walking around town with my friend, I noticed a group of older folks in public with their shirts rolled up, revealing their stomach. To me, it felt almost like a fashion statement. I thought it was so much fun, but I couldn’t quite explain why. Not long after, I realized I had other interesting observations and ideas about fashion that I wanted to share. And so, Speechless was born,” she says, explaining that her long-term vision is for the platform to grow into an archive of stories that’s able to captivate people of all professions, races, cultures, and genders. “Maybe it’s a naive idea, but we’re open to everything. On this platform, I want people to not worry about ‘stepping over boundaries.’ There shouldn’t be any!”

说起 Speechless,这个 Ning 一手创立的线上生活形态资讯平台,背后还有个可爱又有点搞笑的小故事。“当初和朋友走在街头,看到夏天时大叔们因为天气闷热,把衣服卷到肚皮上散热,一群人站在路口形成有趣的‘时尚风景’,觉得说不出的逗趣景象,加上自己有许多对于生活趣事和时装及美感的看法想跟大家分享,于是便有了Speechless。” Ning 想借助这个平台,和一群对新鲜事物充满好奇的人们分享资讯,他们不按常理出牌,喜欢打破沙锅问到底,勇于打破常规,当然还有,充满幽默感。Ning 希望透过 Speechless 推广一种没有边界,跨产业、跨种族、跨文化、跨性别的理念,创造一个单纯且有趣的意见交换与分享平台。“在这里因为我们单纯而开放的多元精神,大家不必在意互踩界线!哈哈,因为我们也没有界限!”

“I’m both a dreamer and a dream maker,” Ning tells us. “I’m interested in sharing my experiences with people eager to learn so that they can make it closer to their own dreams. I think the best way to live life is to keep an open mind about everything. Kids and adults think differently. Adults already have preconceived notions about many things in life, but kids are different. They look at things in a different light – they don’t see limitations.” Ning often reminds people to retain their child-like sense of wonder about the world, to be receptive to different ideas, and create by thinking outside of the box. She wants people from all walks of life – especially designers, stylists, and fashion enthusiasts – to see that life can be lived without the mental limitations we often place on ourselves and spread the message that by harnessing our creativity, we hold the key to unlocking endless possibilities.

我是一个梦想家(Dreamer),也同时是一个梦想实现家(Dream maker) 。因为我在做梦的同时,也会把自己的经验传达给很多学生,帮助他们更靠近梦想。” Ning 和我们分享道,我觉得最有趣的生活状态就是对任何事物都采取开放的态度。”所以 Ning 常提醒自己用小孩子的态度对待世界,“孩子的生活和成人的生活不同,成人对事物已经有既定的印象,可是小朋友不一样,小朋友没有带有色眼镜,也没有任何的限制。” Ning 希望用更开放的心胸和更多元化的想法去创作,把这种没有界限的生活方式带给所有人,包括设计师,和那些对时尚和设计有热情的人们。

If you’re interested in checking out more designs from Ning and XSPLUSLAB, they’re now available at the POY Art Designer Concept Store.


Aegean Shopping Mall
1588 Wuzhong Road 1F 123A
Minhang District, Shanghai
People’s Republic of China


Website: xspluslab.com
Facebook: ~/xspluslab
Instagram: @absolutespeechless
WeChat: SPEECHLESS_Official


Contributor: Ye Zi
Videographer: Yang Bingying & Ye Zi

Photographer: Chan Qu

想看到更多 Ning 和 XSPLUSLAB 的更多作品,可以到半境空间设计概念店参观。


吴中路1588号 1F 123A


网站: xspluslab.com
脸书: ~/xspluslab
Instagram: @absolutespeechless
微信: SPEECHLESS_Official


供稿人: Ye Zi
视频摄影师: Yang Bingying & Ye Zi

照片摄影师: Chan Qu




Shenzhen-based brand ROARINGWILD understands what makes a piece of clothing “streetwear” is more than its aesthetics alone – it’s the attitude and spirit behind the garment that truly makes it streetwear. And for the last seven years, ROARINGWILD has worked tirelessly to advance their vision of creating a streetwear brand that not only represents their ideals but can also inspire an attitude shift in the Chinese youth. The ROARINGWILD name itself is a message, telling the youth to no longer stay complacent; it’s a rallying call, emboldening people to live loudly and chase after their dreams fearlessly. The concept of streetwear as a lifestyle is embedded in ROARINGWILD’s very DNA, and the latest manifestation of the brand’s vision comes in the form of ROARINGWILD’s first brick-and-mortar store in Shenzhen, recently unveiled on October 28th. For the six co-founders behind ROARINGWILD, this physical location is meant to be more than simply a clothing store – it’s the physical embodiment of a yearning to introduce a lifestyle that they know and love to more young people in Shenzhen.


Image Courtesy of ROARINGWILD
Image Courtesy of ROARINGWILD
Image Courtesy of ROARINGWILD

The recent opening event was an experience quite unlike other conventional store launches. While products from their latest collection were on display and available for purchase, they were never the focal point of the event. The opening felt more like ROARINGWILD’s way of paying respects to the long-standing intersect between art, design, music, and streetwear. Photographers, graffiti artists, musicians, fashion designers, and more were all brought together to celebrate not only a milestone for the brand but to celebrate Chinese streetwear culture as a whole. Flaunting the cyberpunk-inspired techwear jackets and traditional Chinese tunics of ROARINGWILD’s latest collection, attendees put on a master class in Chinese street style and showcased how the Shenzhen-born brand fits alongside pieces from international streetwear powerhouses such as CAVEMPT, C2H4, and Gosha Rubchinskiy.

而这次的门店开幕活动也与其它开幕式截然不同。虽然门店内也在展示和出售品牌的最新系列产品,但这一点并不是这次开幕活动的焦点所在。整场开幕式感觉更像是ROARINGWILD在以自己的方式致敬艺术与设计、音乐、街头时尚之间的融合。摄影师、涂鸦艺术家、音乐家、时装设计师汇聚在一起,一起来庆祝这一代表品牌全新里程碑的活动,同时也在庆祝中国的街头文化。身穿ROARINGWILD最新系列中的机能(Techwear)美学夹克和中式长袍嘉宾们云集荟萃,上演了一场令人瞩目的中国街头时尚秀,展示出这个来自深圳的本土品牌与CAVEMPT、C2H4、Gosha Rubchinskiy等国际街头时尚品牌竞相媲美的实力。

At the event, Shenzhen’s streetwear community demonstrated a sense of inclusiveness and welcoming spirit that was a refreshing departure from the better-than-thou attitude adopted by similar scenes in other cities. People of different backgrounds, different ages, and different professions all mingled together, united by a shared passion for streetwear.  “Shenzhen is definitely a very inclusive city,” says BG, the creative director and head designer of ROARINGWILD. “It’s because the city is younger and the youth here are open to new things. Even when people are doing different things from one another, they’re all interested in what their peers are up to. That’s probably what has forged this sense of community. It feels like something that’s exclusive to this city.”


While the new store marks a brand new chapter for ROARINGWILD, BG is well aware that there will be more challenges on the road ahead. However, having started the brand from scratch back in 2010, overcoming unforeseen obstacles is nothing new. Sharing parallels with the DIY ethics and figure-it-out-as-you-go style of many of today’s most successful streetwear brands, ROARINGWILD has gotten to where it is today by swimming against the current, learning from its mistakes, and proving all the naysayers wrong “In life, people might tell you that you can’t do things this way or that way, but you’ll often end up doing it anyway,” says BG, shrugging. “A lot of what we’ve done up to this point defies the traditional methods or ways of thinking. We want to pass this attitude on to today’s young people. It’s not just about selling products – it’s about expressing ourselves.”

虽然新门店的开幕对 ROARINGWILD 来说又是一个新篇章,但六位共同创始人都知道,未来的道路上会有更多的挑战。不过,自从他们在2010年开始一手创立品牌,克服困难障碍对他们来说已经是家常便饭。和如今许多成功的街头品牌那种DIY和“兵来将挡,水来土掩”的精神一样,ROARINGWILD逆流而行,从错误中不断学习,证明给所有曾经不看好他们的人看。饼干说:“在生活中,可能有很多人会跟你说这样做这件事情不行,但你最终还是会千方百计把它给做了。我们就做过很多打破传统、跳出思维方式的事情,所以也想把这样的态度传达给现在的年轻人。这不仅仅只是卖产品,更重要的是通过产品去传输一种表达自我的理念。”

L1-069, 1F
No. 99 Xinhu Road
Bao’an District, Shenzhen
People’s Republic of China

10:00 ~ 22:00


Website: roaringwild.net


Contributor & Photographer: David Yen
Videographer: Damien Louise
Additional Images & Footage Courtesy of ROARINGWILD

新湖路 99号
1楼 L1-069





供稿人与图片摄影师: David Yen
视频摄影师: Damien Louise

Xander Zhou Spring/Summer 2018

For the unveiling of Chinese designer Xander Zhou‘s latest collection, the runaway was transformed into an office-like environment, or more specifically, the headquarters of an imaginary corporation called “Supernatural, Extraterrestrial & Co.” But instead of white-collared workers, Zhou’s office is populated with uniformed staff in glittery tracksuits, bowling uniforms, oriental garments, and other outlandish outfits. Every outfit is a “standardized uniform” in Zhou’s reimagining of modern society in an alternate reality, but the details in each design help draw attention to the diverse origins and cultural backgrounds of Zhou’s imaginary characters. For every single one of his collections, Zhou has described his design approach to be similar to producing a movie, with each look helping to build a cohesive and compelling narrative.

新一季的Xander Zhou的T台被打造成一个巨大的办公室场景,但里面可不仅仅只有西装革履的上班族,更充满了外星人、餐厅服务生、神秘的东方法师等各种角色,乍一看他们隐藏在现代文明之下,却在各自的着装细节里透露着自己身份的线索。对设计师而言,整个系列就像一次个人电影创作,所有look一起构建出最终完整的剧情。一起来看看这场Xander Zhou SS18台前幕后精彩的“演出”。

Website: www.xanderzhou.com
Instagram: @XanderZhou


Contributor: Shou Xing
Images Courtesy of Xander Zhou

网站: www.xanderzhou.com
Instagram: @XanderZhou


供稿人: Shou Xing
图片由Xander Zhou提供

Tiffany’s Tokyo TV: Yoshi



Based in Tokyo, Tiffany Godoy is a seasoned fashion editor and host of SSENSE’s “vlogumentary” series Tiffany’s Tokyo TV. The series explores Tokyo’s fashion scene, interviewing different fashion icons in the city. In one of our favorite episode, released earlier this year, Godoy chats with Yoshi, a 14-year-old fashion figure who attends various fashion events, posts selfies on Instagram with his mom’s phone, and aspires to start his own clothing brand. In the video, Godoy joins Yoshi for a fun day of eating hamburgers, dancing, and visiting his favorite boutique shops in Harajuku.

作为一个资深时装编辑的Tiffany Godoy以东京为背景与SSENSE制作了一档属于自己的真人节目《Tiffany’s Tokyo TV》,旨在深度挖掘这个城市里的时尚ICON们的故事。在这期节目里,Godoy采访了14岁的Yoshi,Yoshi在穿着上非常有自己独到的见解,他以他的方式参加各种时尚活动,用妈妈的手机上Instagram,并且梦想着成立一个自己的品牌。Yoshi跟Godoy一起吃汉堡、跳舞、带领她去他最爱的两个原宿时装店并且分享了自己的一些超龄计划。

Vans Custom Culture Asia

Vans has brought the Custom Culture Competition to Asia for the first time ever this year. With a well-established reputation for individualism and self-expression, the Vans brand spirit is perfectly embodied through this competition. Working with the goal of rallying Asia’s creative community and providing a new platform to help showcase the region’s burgeoning creators, the contest invites everyone to flaunt their creativity for a chance to see their design make its way onto a pair of these iconic canvas shoes.

今年,Vans 首次将 Custom Culture 鞋履设计比赛带到亚洲。这一比赛充分体现了Vans 一向推崇个性化和自我表现的品牌精神,致力凝聚亚洲创意社区,为新兴艺术家提供一个新的创意平台。比赛邀请一众亚洲艺术家,尽情发挥他们的设计创意, 获奖者的设计将会被用于设计该品牌的全新帆布鞋产品。

For the competition, Vans has invited various respected artists from around Asia as both mentors and judges. Mentors will help the selected finalists to flesh out and complete their final design. These mentors include Chinese visual artist Lin Wenxin, South Korean illustrator Original Punk, Hong Kong-based woodworking atelier Start from Zero, Singapore-based husband-and-wife creative duo Sabotage, self-taught Malaysian street artist Fritilldea, and India-based street artist duo Varsha Nair. Judges include renowned San Francisco-based illustrator Jay Howell, Nini Sum of the Shanghai-based artist duo IdleBeats, plus many more.

在今年比赛中, Vans邀请了亚洲各地备受推崇的艺术家作为导师和评委。导师将帮助决赛选手改善其设计作品。这些导师包括来自重庆的视觉艺术家林文心, 韩国插画家Original Punk, 香港木艺画室Start from Zero, 新加坡夫妻组合艺术家Sabotage, 自学成才的马来西亚街头艺术家Fritilldea和印度街头艺术家组合Varsha Nair。评委则包括来自旧金山的著名插画家Jay Howell,来自上海 IdleBeatsNini Sum等等。

Now, the six talented finalists from China, Korea, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore, and India have all finished their designs alongside their respective mentors. The final round will decide who will win a trip to House of Vans London and have their creation debuted in stores Asia-wide next year! See the final entries below and vote for your favorites by clicking here.

现在,六位来自中国、韩国、香港、马来西亚、新加坡和印度才华横溢的设计师分别在各自导师的帮助下完成了最后的鞋履设计。最后一轮比赛的结果将会决定谁最终能赢得前往参加House of Vans伦敦站的机会,获胜的设计还将在明年亮相亚洲地区的Vans门店公开发售!下面是所有最终入围的决赛作品,来看看哪一款是你的最爱,点击此处,为它投上一票。

Felix / China

“The initial idea of this design is to make it appealing to a large audience while also bringing the Vans spirit alive. The reason I used this color combination is because I wanted to design a pair of summer shoes. It’s mainly green, dotted by red, with a little watermelon feeling.”

Felix / 中国


Kim Young Hyun / Korea 

“My design is inspired by comics. It’s a bit different from what people see in popular comics. This idea I came up with can be easily executed on a pair of Authentic shoes. I wanted to make a scary character in a witty situation, in order to maximize the humorous atmosphere.”

Kim Young Hyun / 韩国


Taka / Hong Kong 

“First things first, it’s got to be something I would wear. I like to wear simple colored shoes for ease of outfit matching. I wanted to create something for everyday use, yet as an artist, it has to be a recognizable shoe that was designed by me.”

Taka / 香港 


Khiddir Baharudin / Malaysia

“My design was inspired by how Vans has influenced the people in different parts of Asia. The design portrays different cultures in Asia, with people from Malaysia, Singapore, China, India, and Korea,  focusing on traditional outfits, transportation, and architectures from the ’60s and ’70s.”

 Khiddir Baharudin / 马来西亚


Edmund Seah / Singapore

“As an artist, I paint on various platforms, bringing the style and flow of the Japanese craft onto different media apart from the skin. I do not merely want to create a pretty image without flow and form.”

Edmund Seah / 新加坡


Anaghaa Chakrapani / India

“My inspiration for the shoe comes from the local essence of places I’ve traveled. I’ve traveled to many major cities in Asia. The elements in my shoe are inspired by the things I’ve observed and loved in the Asian region and my motherland India.”

Anaghaa Chakrapani / 印度


Website: houseofvansasia.com


Contributor: David Yen
Images Courtesy of Vans

网站: houseofvansasia.com


供稿人: David Yen

Herschel Supply’s China Debut

With a newly opened Shanghai office and a strong showing of upcoming releases at this year’s YO’ HOOD streetwear trade show, Herschel Supply appears ready to take the Middle Kingdom by storm. The Vancouver-based brand, founded by brothers Lyndon and Jamie Cormack, has been producing quintessential bags and accessories for North American urbanites since 2009. Herschel’s foray into China is an opportunity for the brothers to introduce their products and share the brand’s spirit of exploration and thoughtful designs to a new, massive audience.

Herschel Supply先是在上海开设新办公室,又在刚结束的YO’HOOD世界顶尖潮流品牌新品展上亮相品牌新品,看来,这个加拿大包袋品牌已经准备好大举进军中国。品牌由Lyndon Cormack和Jamie Cormack两兄弟成立,总部位于温哥华,自2009年以来,品牌包袋已经成为北美都市潮人的必备配饰,今年,他们进军中国也将标志着品牌一个全新的开始。这也会为两兄弟提供一个机会,向全然不同的消费者分享他们的探索精神与设计美学。

What sets Herschel apart from all the other brands entering China is its open-mindedness and ambition – the brothers aren’t merely interested in introducing a Western aesthetic into China. Chatting with Lyndon, he shared some plans of upcoming collaborations with local Chinese designers and brands. Speaking passionately, Lyndon says, “Being a global brand is about collaborating with artists around the world and bringing their stories to the global audiences. It’s not enough to bring North American stories to China, we want to bring stories from China back to North America.” Taking into account Herschel’s recent collaboration with Japanese streetwear brand WTAPS, the brand appears genuinely keen on facilitating creative collaborations in not only China but throughout Asia and the rest of the world.

或许,Herschel Supply最有别于其它进入中国的品牌的一点是他们的开放性和抱负——他们可不仅仅是想将西方美学引入中国。最近,我们与Lyndon聊了一下,他充满热情地介绍了他与中国当地艺术家和品牌在接下来的合作计划。Lyndon说:“我们希望透过与世界各地的设计师合作,把品牌打造成为一个全球品牌,将设计师的故事分享到世界各地。不仅仅是把北美的故事带到中国,同时也要把中国的故事带回北美地区。”考虑到他们最近与日本服饰品牌WTAPS的合作,Herschel似乎确实很急切地希望能有更多创意合作,不仅是中国,而是在全球范围内。

Beyond an interest in the cross-pollination of cultures, Lyndon places great importance on respecting and understanding cultural nuances from region to region. When releasing new collections, the brand carefully considers the needs of different regions in terms of both functionality and aesthetics. Hinting at features of upcoming designs, Lyndon shared his observations of Chinese cities: “Sometimes when you leave home for the day, you won’t return until late at night. In North America, most people rely on cars so they can leave things there and bring more with them. For China, people have to be more thoughtful with what they’re bringing with them every day.”


One of the most surprising aspects of Herschel might be where its products are manufactured. Even though its design aesthetics are firmly rooted in North American heritage, much of Herschel’s products are manufactured in China, a matter that the brand has happily maintained transparency around. “The factories and the amount of technologies in China they’ve been investing in to ensure they’re cutting-edge and leading is far superior to what we’ve seen in other countries,” Lyndon beams. “We want to make our products in the best place we can and it happens to be right here in China.”


As our conversation came to an end, Lyndon optimistically commented on China’s fast-developing fashion scene, “Before, Chinese kids might’ve wanted to be like American kids. Now, Chinese kids want to dress like Chinese kids. I think it’s going to come full circle. What’s going on here is going to influence everything in North America and Europe as well.”


Website: www.herschelsupply.co
Weibo: ~/HerschelSupply
Instagram: @herschelsupply


Contributor: David Yen
Images Courtesy of Herschel Supply



供稿人: David Yen
图片由Herschel Supply提供

The Line Between Fashion & Art

Every year, London’s Central Saint Martin hosts the BA Fashion Show, featuring collections from the year’s graduating designers. This year, Chinese designer Xiaoming Shan received special mention at the end of the show for creativity, making it the first time that a designer, aside from the winners, was given recognition in the speaker’s notes. Looking beyond Shan’s bold use of colors and shapes, deeper themes are present in his work, often based on his observations of modern times. “Everyday, you encounter different people, things, and events,” he says. “Even if you’re not consciously aware of it, they become catalysts for inspiration.” For Shan, finding creativity from his life experiences seems to come quite naturally.

Xiaoming Shan毕业于世界最负盛名的的时装设计学院之一的英国中央圣马丁艺术设计学院,今年,他的设计获得了年度毕业秀的特别创意提名。回看他的作品,引人瞩目的不仅仅是他对颜色和图案的大胆运用,背后的设计理念也远超越了这些强烈的视觉元素。他在不同时期的作品也往往带着当下的影子,叙述着当下发生的事。“每天接触到的不同的人,物,事,都会成为日后创作的良药,即使你不会特别留意他们。”在他眼里,一切积累与输出发生得如此自然。

Discussing some of the biggest changes he’s undergone since attending CSM, Shan shares: “I suppose it’s the way I view clothing. I feel like I’m slowly breaking away from this preconceived notion of what clothing can or can’t be, and it’s allowed me the freedom to pursue what feels right to me.” His eccentric and colorful designs are a clear departure from conventional fashion – it’s a visual representation of his understanding of pop culture, style, himself and his relationships. When viewing Shan’s work, perhaps we can temporarily set aside the idea of how certain things “should” be done and learn from how Shan creates what he wants to create.

谈及自己求学期间最大的改变,Xiaoming Shan表示:“看待服装的态度吧,感觉自己慢慢从“服装”这个字眼中走了出来,可以更自由的做你认为对的事情。”他的作品也的确有别于我们一贯理解的服装概念,它们戏剧性的呈现了他对当下流行文化的思考,关于我们对自己风格的取舍,关于本我与他我。也许我们也可以暂时抛下我们认为“应该做”的成见,看看Xiaoming Shan呈现的他“想要做”的。

Weibo: ~/XIAOMINGSHAN_official


供稿人: Shou Xing
Images Courtesy of Xiaoming Shan

微博: ~/XIAOMINGSHAN_official
Instagram: @xiaomingshan_official


供稿人: Shou Xing
图片由Xiaoming Shan提供

The Private Label / Pre-Fall 2017

Recently, independent clothing brand The Private Label released Last Days, the newest lookbook for its 2017 Pre-Fall collection. Shot by French photographer Laurent Segretier, the series takes place in Hong Kong’s Chai Wan District, in an old shopping arcade that’s been scheduled for demolition. The project is a commentary on the rapid development of Hong Kong, especially the invasion of corporations that have rendered these traditional shopping malls obsolete. With the belief that this mass production and developmental frenzy is eroding the very essence of Hong Kong and wiping away the city’s many unique characteristics, the designer behind The Private Label set off to try and capture a vanishing side of Hong Kong. Last Days is a documentation of the final days of one these communities and encapsulates a sense of wistful regret and nostalgia.

最近, The Private Label 发布了2017秋季服装目录“LastDays”,此系列照片由法国摄影师Laurent Segretier掌镜,于香港柴湾区一个即将被政府拆除的商场拍摄。在香港,城市的快速更替让一些旧式商场和社区小店接连被淘汰,取而代之的是大型连锁商铺。The Private Label的幕后团队认为这些高复制性的产出在发展的同时却让城市变得单调乏味,失去了原本的独特性和人情味,为了尽可能地保留住这些即将逝去的回忆,他们创作了”Last Days“,用相片记录下这个旧式商场被清除前最后的日子,同时表达出对旧香港文化流失的惋惜和留恋。

The designer behind The Private Label consider the 80s and 90s as the golden era of Hong Kong and is influenced by the kung-fu movies and romance movies of the period, envisioning a photo series that could convey the texture and ambiance of the Chinatowns depicted in the films from this time period. To establish this particular aesthetic and mood, Sergretier chose to use 120 film. The end result is a palette of soft colors that appear to seamlessly combine the clothing, subject, and environment into one unified frame.

受到八九十年代香港功夫片及爱情片的影响,The Private Label的设计师希望照片能传递出一种旧电影中唐人街的质感和气氛,那个黄金年代也正是香港文化对外输出最为旺盛的日子。此次拍摄摄影师Laurent Segretier选用了120胶片相机,照片柔和的色彩使服装和周围的环境协调地融在一起。

In addition to the lookbook’s retro vibes, the designs of the collection itself are also derived from the designer’s nostalgia. Growing up at the turn of the millennium, the designer behind The Private Label have observed hip-hop and NBA culture’s influence on the trends of this generation. This realization translates into this collection’s designs, appearing in the form of oversized fits inspired by the streetwear of the 2000s. Coupling this with the choice of a finer fabric and modified silhouette commonly seen in Eastern garments, the collection blends the best of both worlds, accomplishing the designer’s goal of combining the spirit of Western street culture with the aesthetic sensibilities of Eastern culture. The new collection is now available on The Private Label’s official website.

除了打造复古质感的服装目录以外,这系列服装本身的设计灵感也同样来源于设计师的怀旧情怀。成长于千禧年代,The Private Label的设计师认为嘻哈文化及NBA文化深刻影响着他们这代人的潮流见解。他试图将那些宽大舒适的服装剪裁与中国元素的服装细节及面料融合在一起,也希望能将西方的街头文化精神和精致的东方美学串联在一起。此系列服装正于The Private Label官网发售,点此查看。

Instagram: @theprivatelabelclothing


 Contributor: Ye Zi



供稿人: Ye Zi