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On the Margins 亚细亚探奇实录

December 30, 2021 2021年12月30日
A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project

Jess Kohl is a British filmmaker whose work focuses on underground subcultures throughout Asia. Her documentaries have featured punk rock activists in the Philippines, transgender communities in India, and skinhead tensions in Malaysia. Kohl says that a feeling of being different is a big drive behind her exploration of such obscure scenes. “People immersed in subcultures are often struggling with identity, trying to figure out who they are in the world,” she says. “I’m very interested in the contrast and layers of identity that are found with the adoption of Western subcultures in different parts of the world.”


英国导演 Jess Kohl 围绕亚洲地下亚文化拍摄了一系列的纪录片,她将镜头分别对准了菲律宾的朋克摇滚乐手、印度的跨性别群体和马来西亚的光头党。Jess 表示,特立独行的态度是她探索非主流场景的一大动力。她说道:“亚文化群体往往会经历身份认同的挣扎,试图弄清楚自己在世界的位置。因此,我想去世界各地,去了解不同地方亚文化的差异,以及不同身份的面貌。”

A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project
A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project

Kohl’s first film was Anarchy In the Philippines, which followed a collective of punk rockers hitchhiking around their island playing gigs and doing charity work under the specter of a violent drug war. It was a passion project and she flew to Southeast Asia alone on her own dime, working only with a driver who helped out wherever he could, helping with translation and such.


Jess 的第一部影片是《Anarchy in The Philippines》(菲律宾无政府主义),讲述了在硝烟狼藉的毒品战争中,一群朋克摇滚乐手乘搭顺风车,周游菲律宾岛、一路巡演、参加慈善工作的故事。拍摄的计划纯粹出于她的热爱,由她自己一人出钱。她只身飞往东南亚,与当地一名司机会和,司机为她​​提供翻译等帮助。

 

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She stumbled onto the Filipino punk scene when she fell down a social media wormhole while living in London, quickly becoming online friends with many members of the punk-rock community. Kohl subsequently began learning about the violence of the drug war, which was launched in 2016 by President Duterte and by some estimates has led to the deaths of up to 27,000 people. She knew a focus on musicians would be a useful way to engage a younger audience with an important issue. One of the older punk rockers she befriended urged her to visit and eventually became an indispensable collaborator in telling the group’s story. “He was sending me all these videos and photos of him and his friends,” she says. “It sounded amazing to me and I felt like I had to go do this, so I did.”


在伦敦生活期间,她无意间在社交媒体上接触到菲律宾朋克圈子,很快与当地许多朋克乐手建立起联系。之后,Jess 又了解到当地一度猖獗的毒品战争。这场战争由杜特尔特总统于 2016 年发起,据估计已导致多达 27,000 人死亡。她认为,从音乐人入手,可以更好地吸引年轻观众参与到严肃问题的讨论中来。她认识的一位资深朋克乐手邀请她来菲律宾,向她讲述整个群体的故事。Jess 说:“他为我提供了很多视频和照片素材,我看过之后觉得很有意思。对我来说,这是一趟非去不可的旅行,二话没说就出发了。”

A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project
A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project
A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project

The film follows the group of punk rockers as they perform, dance in mosh pits, and discuss what it’s like to be a punk in the Philippines. Despite their outspoken nature, she found many of them reluctant to speak about a brutal but popular drug war. (Many Filipinos think it’s risky to criticize the administration.) “They were very open in speaking to me, except for what was happening politically. I kept trying to bring it up with people and they’d usually avoid the question,” she says. Some did mention that friends had been killed because of drugs, and one says he was wrongfully accused and imprisoned for no reason. “He’s one of the originators who brought punk rock to this generation but had taken time out from the scene because of what had happened. It was a traumatic experience. It was sad.”


影片展示了许多菲律宾朋克现场的画面,还原了菲律宾朋克乐手的现状。Jess 发现,尽管他们在很多方面都可以做到直言不讳,但对于这场国内大范围毒品战争,许多人仍选择避而不谈(许多菲律宾人认为批评政府会有危险)。她说:“政治话题在当地非常敏感。每当我尝试提起这个话题,他们都会刻意回避。”乐手们的朋友有的甚至因吸毒被害,还有人被无缘无故关进牢房。“一些当地的朋克老炮因为这件事被迫离开圈子。这是一次惨痛的经历,令人感到悲哀。”

A photo from the Anarchy in the Philippines project

One thing that’s notable about the punks in the film is their willingness to give back to the community. The main gig they play is a fundraiser for someone in need, and at the show, they hung up “Food Not Bombs” banners, which is an international movement to provide food to the hungry as a way to advocate non-violence. “They’re very interested in supporting people who are less fortunate, even though these guys have very little themselves,” Kohl says. “They’re actually very political and care about what’s going on in their country and want to give back.”


影片中,朋克乐手们都很有爱心,他们经常将赚到的钱回馈社区。甚至在现场还挂起了“Food Not Bombs”(要食物不要炸弹)的横幅,倡导民生远离纷争。“Food Not Bombs”是一项为饥饿人群提供食物的国际运动,旨在消除暴力。Jess 说:“尽管他们自己本身也并不富有,但还是乐于帮助他人。事实上,他们很关心政治,关心他们国家正在发生的事,并渴望寄予回馈。”

 

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A photo from the Nirvana project
A photo from the Nirvana project

Not long after completing that documentary, Kohl began work on Nirvana, a film about transgendered people in India competing in a beauty pageant called the Koovagam Festival, which is said to be the largest trans gathering in Asia. It starts off with a series of portrait shots while a voiceover recounts the story of Mohini, a Hindu goddess that some consider trans since she’s the female avatar of the male deity Vishnu. “India, in particular, has a history of gender nonconformity; it dates back hundreds of years,” Kohl reasons. “The idea of being non-binary feels like a very modern thing, but it’s been happening for hundreds of years in different cultures across the world.”


在这部纪录片完成不久后,Jess 紧接着开始拍摄《Nirvana》(涅槃)。这是一部关于印度跨性别者参加 Koovagam Festival 选美比赛的影片,该比赛据说这是亚洲最大型的跨性别者活动。影片以一系列单人镜头开始,同时以旁白讲述印度教女神莫希尼(Mohini)的故事。有人认为莫希尼自己就是跨性别者,是男神毗湿奴(Vishnu)的女性化身。Jess 解释道:“印度有过一段非常规性别的历史,可以追溯到数百年前。虽然非二元性别感觉像是一个现代社会的新理念,但其实在世界各地的不同文化中,它已经存在了数百年。”

A photo from the Nirvana project
A photo from the Nirvana project
A photo from the Nirvana project
A photo from the Nirvana project
A photo from the Nirvana project

The subjects discuss their lives and the discrimination they face as the film builds up to the day of festivities. She met one subject by reaching out to a local LGBT charity and met another while filming on location. The first subject makes it far along in the competition but eventually goes home without a crown, returning to sex work. The second subject also doesn’t get chosen, and her hopes are shattered, depicted through an emotional scene full of surreal reverb and slow motion. “For the people in the competition, it’s a really big deal. They see it as a way out, although the reality is that it’s probably not going to change their life,” Kohl says. “Losing is devastating to them. Highlighting trans people—who are the subject of so much prejudice—in a humane way that gets under the skin of their experiences, helps to promote tolerance through understanding.”


影片中随着比赛日的临近,跨性别者开始讲述他们的经历和遭遇过的歧视。其中一位跨性别者是她通过联系当地的 LGBT 慈善机构认识的,还有另一位则是在现场拍摄时遇到的。第一位跨性别者在比赛中表现不错,但最终未能获得名次,只能回家继续从事性工作;第二位跨性别者也落选了,影片以虚幻的回响声与慢动作场景诠释出希望破灭的一刻。Jess 说:“对于参加比赛的人来说,这是一场意义重大的比赛,是他们想要改变生活唯一的出路。因此。落选对他们来说是毁灭性的打击。跨性别者承受着如此多的偏见,以一种亲密、人性化的方式来展示跨性别者的经历,有助于提升人们对这个群体的理解,促进包容。”

 

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A photo from the Disciples project
A photo from the Disciples project

Her latest film is Disciples, which also takes an unflinching look at controversial subject matter: skinheads in Malaysia. Although the story is similarly tied to punk rock, it deals mainly with tensions over race between two related groups: One is a group of antifascists dedicated to a pluralistic, multi-racial society; the other is comprised of neo-Nazis who are Muslim nationalists and Malay supremacists.

Some think that nationalists and racists shouldn’t be given media coverage unless it benefits the public, and while this is a tiny subculture adopting Western ideas in a small, developing country, Kohl thought that documenting them was indeed important. “It’s a really difficult thing to navigate whether something like this should be given any air time at all,” she says. “And it’s hard to make a film like this without explicitly stating an opinion. But if we’re too quick to censor ourselves, we endanger our understanding of the world around us. There’s a lot of racism around the world, across different countries and cultures, and it feels important to show that.”

The film joins both groups at home and during their daily lives, meeting family members and observing them interact with each other. All of it builds up to a dinner where both are invited and the tension builds as the night approaches. Although both groups don’t end up at the event together, we’re privy to why they adopt each stance and the way those close to them view their outlooks. There’s a woman involved with the antifascists who complain that their parents won’t let her marry because of her partner’s style of dress. And the father of the neo-Nazi’s leader questions what place Western ideas have in a Muslim country. The leader is shown practicing kickboxing in top form and dressed in neat, fashionable clothing, displaying a charisma that’s unnerving. “He also came across as kind of smart, which was pretty scary,” Kohl admits. “But the rest of the neo-Nazis seemed quite dumb, just kind of following whatever. They almost didn’t know what they were doing.”


她的最新影片《Disciples》(门徒)同样探讨了一个当地备受争议的话题:马来西亚光头党。故事与朋克摇滚有一定的联系,但它更侧重于两个群体之间紧张的对立关系:一边是一群倡导多元化、多种族社会的反法西斯主义者;另一边是由穆斯林民族主义者和马来人至上主义者组成的新纳粹分子。

有的人认为,媒体不应该报道民族主义者和种族主义者,除非是在对公众有益的情况下,但 Jess 却坚定地认为拍摄这个群体很有必要。她说:“是否应该拍摄和展示这些问题本身就是一个很难决定的事。但,如果我们总是急于对自己的创作进行自我换衣,这势必会影响我们对周围世界的理解。世界各地、不同国家和文化都存在各种各样的种族歧视问题,我觉得揭示这些问题很有必要。”

影片拍摄了这两个群体成员日常生活中的一面。例如与家人共处的时刻、彼此之间情感的联络、以及共进晚餐的情形。随着夜幕降临,紧张的氛围渐渐上升。观众可以一窥他们选择各自立场的原因,以及长辈对他们的看法。一个加入反法西斯团体的女人抱怨道,她的父母因为不喜欢她伴侣的着装风格而不同意他们结婚;而一位新纳粹领袖的父亲则在质疑西方思想在穆斯林国家的影响。影片中,新纳粹领袖穿着时尚醒目的服装、身姿矫健地打着拳击,这种魅力令人不安。Jess 说:“他看上去给人一种很聪明的感觉,却令人发怵。其他的新纳粹成员似乎很盲目,只是在随大流,一些人甚至都不知道自己在做什么。”

A photo from the Disciples project
A photo from the Disciples project
A photo from the Disciples project
A photo from the Disciples project

Kohl says that while there was a lot of aesthetic overlap between the scenes in Malaysia and the Philippines, their lifestyles were also very different, and it really speaks to the diversity of the region: “The Philippines was a lot more DIY, I think because the country allows for that culturally. Whereas Malaysia is much more structured. You couldn’t just do a gig in a backyard. Plus drinking isn’t allowed since they’re Muslims, which definitely changed the energy.”


Jess 表示,虽然马来西亚和菲律宾的社会场景看上去很相似,但两地的生活方式却截然不同,这也说明了该地区的多样性,“菲律宾的圈子更 DIY,可能是因为这个国家的文化使然;而马来西亚则更克制,你不可能一时兴起就在自家后院演奏朋克。” 接触不同地区亚文化人群对于 Jess 来说像是上瘾,现在,Jess 扛起相机打算继续前行,继续将镜头聚焦在亚细亚那些不为大众所熟知的面孔上。

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Website: www.jesskohl.com
Instagram
: @jess.kohl
Vimeo: ~/jesskohl

 

Contributor: Mike Steyels
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


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网站: www.jesskohl.com
Instagram
: @jess.kohl
Vimeo: ~/jesskohl

 

供稿人: Mike Steyels
英译中: Olivia Li

Rebel Girls 娇娃最“躁”声

December 28, 2021 2021年12月28日
Beijing-based punk band Pizza Face / Photographer: 鳄鱼拍不拍 披萨脸乐队 / 摄影师: 鳄鱼拍不拍

Living too “punk” is always risky. In China, it might be an even greater risk, as the mainly black-haired, homogeneous society isn’t exactly known for being welcoming to the attitudes and aesthetics that define punk culture. Pink, six-inch hair spikes and studded jackets aren’t digestible for most in the country. Chinese parents often have particular hopes for their children, and any deviation from their expectations means disappointment.

Despite these adversities, punk bands have kept on in China. Within the underground punk scene, female punkers remain somewhat of a rarity. Though they may be hard to find, they exist. It’s encouraging to see their presence, but it’s clear that if punk wants to find a stronger foothold in China, women will need to play a larger role in its evolution. In Western countries, the role of females in punk has been a constant: bands like Bikini Kill, L7, Blondie, and The Distillers have elevated the genre to greater heights. Looking at China’s neighboring countries, such as Japan, where punk arrived much earlier, female groups like OXZ were challenging gender stereotypes as early as 1981. China’s female punk revolution has been more recent in comparison, but its development has been rapid.


太“朋克”是一件很冒险的事情,在中国尤其如此。国内,人们对朋克文化的态度和美学接纳度并不高。对于大多数的人来说,6 英寸长的粉色朋克头和铆钉夹克是难以接受的打扮。中国父母也往往对自己的孩子寄予期待,偏离这些期望就意味着失望。

但在这样的大环境下,朋克乐队在中国仍不屈于现实。以女性朋克为例,即便在地下朋克圈子属于少数派,但她们一直存在。女性的出现,在圈内令人鼓舞,这也表明,朋克文化要想在中国占据立足之地,女性需要在其中发挥更大的作用。在欧美国家,女性一直活跃于朋克文化中:从 The Slits、Blondie 到 The Distillers 和 Bikini Kill,这些女性朋克乐队是朋克乐历史的参与者,更将朋克音乐拔升至新的高度。近看中国的邻国日本,OXZ 等女性乐队早在 1981 年就开始挑战性别刻板印象。相比之下,中国的女子朋克圈子相对较新,但发展相当迅猛。

A photo taken at Qingdao's DMC 青岛 DMC 酒吧
A photo taken at School in Beijing / Photographer: 阿谭女士 北京 School 酒吧 / 摄影师: 阿谭女士

Women-run venues in China have been key to the scene’s development in the country. These spaces include Inferno in Shanghai, DAFA Club in Tianjin, Prison in Wuhan, and DMC in Qingdao—but as the scene grows, the new generation of female punkers will need role models they can look up to. While these women who work behind the scenes are integral, the ascent of more female-fronted and all-female punk bands will be equally important.

China’s first all-women punk band is Hang On The Box. Formed in 1998, after 20 years when China was beginning to open itself to the outside world, the band were pioneers in the country, with many bands and musicians following in their footsteps. They showed countless Chinese women that it was perfectly fine to express themselves in ways that deviate from cultural norms. Their impact was enormous. Within just six months of their first live gig, they appeared on the cover of Newsweek. Despite this momentum, a lack of further mainstream recognition forced HOTB to eventually sign with a Japanese label.

 

Listen to select tracks from Hang on the Box below:


除了参与幕后工作,更多女性主唱和全女性朋克乐队的崛起也同样重要。她们需要榜样,需要第一批“敢吃螃蟹”的人。

挂在盒子上乐队(Hang on the Box)是中国第一支全女性朋克乐队,成立于 1998 年,当时正值中国对外开放的二十年后。挂在盒子上在当时成为中国女子朋克的先驱,对日后的许多乐队和歌手都产生过深远的影响。她们向无数中国女性证明,生活没必要循规蹈矩,妳大可以离经叛道、大胆表达自我。她们在国内曾引起轰动,第一次现场的六个月后,乐队就登上了美国的《新闻周刊(Newsweek)》的封面。虽然势头凶猛,但乐队在中国始终缺乏进一步的主流认可,甚至被一些男性主导的乐队排挤。后来乐队签约海外,被招至日本厂牌麾下。

 

点击即可试听:

A photo of Hang on the Box band members circa 1999 1999 年的挂在盒子上乐队
A photo of Hang on the Box band members circa 1999 1999 年的挂在盒子上乐队
A photo of Hang on the Box band members circa 1999 1999 年的挂在盒子上乐队

Punk as a genre has evolved into offshoot subgenres like post-punk—a similar trajectory was followed by Chinese punk rockers. Beijing’s SUBS are not punk in the strictest sense, but their attitude and street-wise nature can only be described as punk rock. Their DIY methods are a fixture of punk culture, and SUBS have made a name for themselves as China’s longest-running art-punk idols, having been entirely independent for their ten-plus year tenure as a band.

Fronted by Kang Mao, the self-appointed Queen of Fucking Everything (also the name of their 2010 album), whose stage presence is as chic as former Crystal Castles vocalist Alice Glass, SUBS’ screaming garage-punk is one of the most coveted live experiences one can have in the country. Just as an artist evolves through the years experimenting with different mediums, the art-punk sound of SUBS has also: their latest full-length album, yoU aRe yoU, experiments with new wave, post-punk, psych, and electronic.

 

Listen to select tracks from SUBS below:


在西方国家,朋克之后,又衍生出后朋克(post-punk)的概念——中国朋克圈子也出现了类似的发展轨迹。北京的杀不死乐队(SUBS)并不算严格意义上的朋克乐队,但他们的态度却足够朋克。乐队独特的风格也同样根植于朋克文化的核心。在成立二十年的峥嵘岁月里,SUBS 已成为中国最资深的艺术朋克代表之一,且始终保持独立姿态。

SUBS 乐队主唱抗猫自居“操万物女王”,尖叫、以及撕裂式的表演都是她们的招牌,颇具艺术气息。一直以来,SUBS 都尝试运用不同媒介,探索朋克乐的更多可能:他们于 2014 年发行的全长专辑《yoU aRe yoU》就是一次对新浪潮、后朋克、迷幻和电子音乐的试验。

 

点击即可试听:

Kang Mao, the frontwoman of SUBS / Photographer: Laurent Hou 杀不死乐队的现场表演 / 摄影师: Laurent Hou
Kang Mao, the frontwoman of SUBS / Image Courtesy of SUBS 杀不死乐队的主唱 / 图片由 杀不死乐队 提供
Beijing-based art punkers SUBS / Photographer: 韩浊一 杀不死乐队的现场表演 / 摄影师: 韩浊一

Building upon the art-punk recipe that SUBS started, Beijing’s Pizza Face combines a street-punk aesthetic with an unhinged stage presence that results in chaotic shows. Established in 2018 by vocalist Spirit, drummer A-ze, guitarist Fengzi, and bass player A-Fan, they keep the frantic tempo of punk rock but blend in melodic touches and exotic textures resulting in a sound that teeters between sweet and grating. “I always wanted to find a way to be against things out of my logic since I was little,” says Spirit, who cites The Clash, Rancid, and Brody Dalle as some of her influences. ”Regarding the Pizza Face experience, we are more like an animated film with a punk soundtrack.”

Just as a pizza can be host to any toppings you like, Pizza Face comes in many “flavors.” Their shows are the epitome of unfiltered expression. When Spirit and company play a venue, it becomes their kingdom for time that they are on stage. A set ranges from mouth-full-of-pizza-style-screaming songs to moody mid-tempo pieces perfect for writhing around on the floor to. Their shows prove that unpredictability is still one of the greatest assets of punk music. At one performance, after climbing the speakers, frontwoman Spirit was given a rose by a concert attendee, which she promptly chewed up and swallowed.

 

Listen below:


与 SUBS 艺术气质不同,北京新晋女子朋克乐队披萨脸乐队(Pizzaface)则将街头朋克美学与自身的怪脾气相结合,呈现出极具混乱与耍宝的气质。乐队由主唱小航、鼓手阿泽、吉他手峰子和贝斯于 2018 年创立,在延续朋克的张狂节奏之余,又融入令人耳前一亮的律动,交错出声动刺耳的聆听体验。“我从小就想方设法来对抗自己脑海中的既定逻辑,”小航说道,她指出自己深受 The Clash、Rancid 和 Brody Dalle 等乐队的影响,“就披萨脸乐队的演出而言,我们更像是动画片儿的朋克配乐。”

披萨脸乐队拥有多种“口味”,他们的演出是毫无滤镜的本色演出。每次乐队演出时,舞台就变成她们主宰的世界——从狼吞虎咽式的尖叫,到暗流涌动的中速(mid-tempo)转折,他们以自己的演出证明,出人意料仍然是朋克音乐最大的魅力之一。在她们的一场演出中,女主唱小航爬上音响,把一位观众送给她的玫瑰花当场嚼碎并吞掉。

 

点击即可试听:

Beijing-based punk band Pizza Face / Photographer: 鳄鱼拍不拍 披萨脸乐队 / 摄影师: 鳄鱼拍不拍

Aside from the music itself, punk fashion remains elusive in China, of either gender. While the younger generation has become more willing to dress in bolder, unconventional ways, the Middle Kingdom is still a largely conservative society, and the conspicuous nature of punk fashion often still garners double-takes and raised brows on the street. While Hang on the Box set a precedent for female punk bands in China, their look still remained somewhat modest.


除了音乐,朋克时尚在中国仍算小众,无论男女。虽然年轻一代更乐于追求大胆、特立独行的着装打扮,但在很大程度上,中国社会整体上仍然偏保守,朋克时尚的醒目风格仍难免引来路人的侧目。挂在盒子上在中国开创了女性朋克乐队先河,但她们的着装打扮其实还算比较低调。

Dummy Toys / Photographer: Kbbbbb- 人形玩偶乐队 / 摄影师: Kbbbbb-
Dummy Toys / Photographer: Kbbbbb- 人形玩偶乐队 / 摄影师: Kbbbbb-
Dummy Toys / Photographer: Kbbbbb- 人形玩偶乐队 / 摄影师: Kbbbbb-
Dummy Toys / Photographer: Kbbbbb- 人形玩偶乐队 / 摄影师: Kbbbbb-

However, spiked hair, leather boots, studs, and piercings are what Qingdao’s Dummy Toys are all about. They have taken the punk aesthetic to its purest form, representing a contemporary take on the old-school 70s punk look. Their attitude is equally punk, unafraid of flipping off anyone who judges their lifestyle. Only teenagers when Hang On The Box was at the height of their popularity, Dummy Toys’ members say they were influenced by them but give equal credit to non-female bands in the country as well, such as Demerit.

Their acidic anthem, “Street Punk Girls,” from their Not A Puppet album encapsulates their look and desire to be free from a mundane, homogenized existence. The music video for the song shows a girl bored with her normal life, and in a not-so-subtle display of how one might break out of monotony, she spikes her hair, throws on a pair of Doc Martens, and skateboards to a Dummy Toys’ concert.

The song “Not a Puppet,” the title track from their debut LP, further emphasizes their philosophy of carving out one’s own lane. The notion of being a puppet on a string is a metaphor many bands have used in the past, the most famous being Metallica with their Master of Puppets album. “We don’t want to be puppets of anyone or anything, and we don’t want to be restrained,” says guitarist Xiaoniao. “The education we have received from childhood teaches us about a lot of so-called norms in society. We don’t want to be what others want; we still want to be ourselves.”

When asked if their appearance has caused any trouble for them, Xiaoniao says, “I’ve heard that some people think it’s a bit strange, but it’s not a big problem. We don’t want to force them to accept us, and we will not change ourselves because of them.”

Huanzi says, “We think Qingdao’s musical atmosphere is better than in previous years. It’s not just punk music. Everyone is willing to come to watch the show, but most people don’t necessarily have a fixed musical style or preference.”

At a Dummy Toy show, children may sometimes even be seen catching the show from backstage. These are the kids of the members themselves, and while they’re delighted that their children can see what they do, they have no intentions of molding them into images themselves. “What children like is their own thing,” Xiaoniao says. “It doesn’t matter whether they enter the punk world or not. In fact, we think children should be rebellious by nature. Most of them don’t like the same things as their parents.”

They understandably also have zero interest in being defined by their gender. The band only wants to keep making great punk music and isn’t interested in focusing on the band members’ gender. Pizza Face’s Spirit echoes the same sentiment, ”I’d prefer the focus to be on the personality inside the music and the fun we can offer, and hopefully encourage listeners to re-examine their outlooks.”

Listen to select tracks from SUBS below:


不在乎旁人眼光,青岛的人形玩偶乐队(≈)则淋漓尽致地诠释了朋克美学:鸡冠头、皮靴、铆钉和皮肤穿孔,她们与主流背道而弛,让一切仿佛回到了 70 年代,那个朋克刚刚起步的年代。她们拥有朋克态度,敢于与那些看不惯的人对峙。当挂在盒子上在中国最火的时候,还是十几岁的 Dummy Toys 成员就受到了来自她们的很多影响。乐队还表示,国内有很多乐队对她们影响很大,比如中国硬核、街头朋克领衔之辈,过失(Demerit)乐队

人形玩偶乐队在 2020 年发行了《Not A Puppet》专辑,其中的歌曲《Street Punk Girls》讲述了她们对于着装的看法、以及对摆脱平凡、同质化生活的渴望。这首歌曲的 MV 讲述了一个女孩挣脱沉闷生活的故事——她从格子间回到卧室,烫起朋克头,换上马丁靴,踩上滑板冲向 Dummy Toys 的音乐现场。

专辑同名主打歌《Not a Puppet》进一步强调了她们独辟蹊径的理念。此前,很多乐队都曾借用提线木偶概念,最著名的莫过于激流金属班霸 Metallica 的传奇唱片《Master of Puppets》。吉他手小鸟说:“从小到大,我们接受的教育和普世观会给予我们很多所谓的规范,有好有不好,有很多感觉都是要把我们统一化,但我们不想成为别人希望的样子,还是想要做自己,我们觉得每一个生命都应该闪闪发光,有自己的颜色。”

当被问到是否曾经因为自己的打扮遇到麻烦时,小鸟说:“我听过有人说我们的打扮有点奇怪,但也不是什么大问题。我们也不想逼迫他们接受我们,我们也不会因为他们改变自己。”

乐队成员欢子说:“我们觉得青岛的音乐氛围比前些年好一些了,不止是朋克音乐,大家愿意来现场看演出,但大部分人不一定有固定的音乐风格上的喜好,这也没什么,一起玩挺好。”

在 Dummy Toys 的演出过程中,你经常可以在后台看到一帮小孩,他们其实都是乐队成员的孩子。对此,成员们都表示欣慰,但她们并不期望孩子也变得和自己一样。小鸟说:“孩子喜欢什么是他们自己的事情,会不会进入朋克世界无所谓。我们其实觉得小孩都天生叛逆,他们大多都不会和父母喜欢一样的东西吧。”

除此之外,乐队成员也不喜欢人们以性别来定义她们。她们只想继续做好自己的朋克,而不想把注意力放在性别上面。披萨脸乐队的小航也表达了同样的观点,她说:“我更喜欢关注音乐所传达的个性和乐趣,希望能鼓励听众重新审视自己的一些想法。”

点击即可试听:

Dummy Toys / Photographer: Elsa Bouillot 人形玩偶乐队 / 摄影师: Elsa Bouillot
Dummy Toys / Photographer: Elsa Bouillot 人形玩偶乐队 / 摄影师: Elsa Bouillot

From Hang on the Box to Dummy Toys, the growing female presence in the punk-rock scene shows no sign of slowing down. Punk, like any other form of music, is always evolving, and no band is in its final form. A new generation of female artists influenced by the Chinese punk idols of the last 20 years are already emerging; they include Xiao Wang, a feisty and somewhat self-deprecating group who identify themselves as kawaiicore punk, and Free Sex Shop, a group that’s been a staple act at Beijing’s famous punk hangout, School Bar.

It is not just the punk subculture that has become a breeding ground for these current and future generations of musically inclined women in China. Rock and metal genres have been equally inclusive to women in China. At those same bars hosting punk bands like Dummy Toys or Pizza Face, it’s not uncommon to see other bands with female members. Take Tianjin’s Angel Monoplane for example, a symphonic metal band featuring a female singer who’s wheelchair-bound. Additionally, Silent Elegy is another band with a talented, operatic female vocalist. Though these bands would be the first to tell you that females being in the group are purely incidental. China is now a place where females can freely and openly create many forms of art without much judgment from their peers, and while the style of bands like Dummy Toys may be unique, it would make heads turn like back when Hang on the Box first started.

Times and attitudes are changing, and what seems bold and expressive now could very well be the norm in ten years. Time will tell who the next girl inspired by these bands will be to pick up her guitar and to put that strife to artistic use. Not long from now, in that crowd of black hair, half of the heads could very well be rainbow-colored.


从挂在盒子上到 Dummy Toys,朋克界开始涌现更多的女性身影。和其他音乐流派一样,朋克也一直在不断演变,历史上没有一支乐队是朋克的最终形式。受到过去 20 年的中国朋克乐先锋们的影响,新一代朋克女孩更是人才辈出,你会看到自居“卡哇伊硬核”(kawaiicore)、活泼又带点自嘲的小王乐队、以及曲风原始直接、英姿飒爽,常年混迹于北京著名地下摇滚酒吧 School(学校酒吧)的 Free Sex Shop 乐队。

除了朋克文化外,很多其他音乐流派也成为了中国当代和未来一代女性艺术家的阵地。相比以往,摇滚和金属音乐中的女性占比越来越大。在如今的中国,女性可以自由、公开地创作多种艺术形式,不用担心其他人的评判,就和当初挂在盒子上横空出世时一样引人注目。

时代的态度不断变化。同样的事物,在十年前是大胆夸张,十年后或许就变成司空见惯的常态。正如挂在盒子上乐队主唱吉娅所说:“朋克,不仅仅是音乐的形式,更是一种追求真理的精神,不妥协不随从世俗,勇于承担风险可以享受孤独,抛弃朋克和摇滚乐本身就很朋克。” 时间会让我们见证,在这些乐队的启发下,新一代女性音乐人会如何拿起手中的乐器,将争议与世俗化作波动的琴弦,在天空划出多彩的光束。

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Contributor: Ryan Dyer
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


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供稿人: Ryan Dyer
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Technicolor Drip 搞颜色,我在行!

December 23, 2021 2021年12月23日

Rendered in bold, gumball colors, the digital universe of 3D illustrator Kota Yamaji is a place that’s difficult to forget. It’s a surreal realm populated by an eclectic cast of characters, all of whom don’t seem to have human demeanors, or at least not visible ones—their heads are either replaced by gargantuan fruits, hidden behind scuba masks, or covered by draped towels. Despite this, his characters have no shortage of personality.


3D 插画家 Kota Yamaji 的数字世界令人眼前一亮,那里由糖果色彩填充,住着各式各样的角色。角色们要么头顶巨型水果切面,要么隐藏在潜水面罩或是抽象图形的背后。整幅画面明亮通透,带给人舒适无比的视觉感受。

Within Yamaji’s work, vibrant colors drench every inch of the frame and every character is dressed to impress. Some don polka-dotted attire that evokes whiffs of Yayoi Kusama, while others are dressed in flamboyant pieces covered in patterns resembling feathers, mazes, and interlocking grids. Garments range from caped shawls and sweatshirt hoodies to reimagined kimonos and puff-sleeved dresses.

Yamaji cites brands such as ADER Error, Undercover, and Kenzo as some of his favorites, and this love of streetwear shows in the eye-catching layers and baggy silhouettes that he so frequently employs. “I find it interesting in how clothes start as 2D sketches and seeing these ideas turned to something 3D and wearable,” he grins. “I enjoy using my own tools to make clothes like the designers I look up to.”


Kota 作品的每一寸画板都充斥着令人愉悦的色彩,角色也个个是盛装打扮。有的穿着充满草间弥生 (Yayoi Kusama) 风格的波点印花服装;有的则身着饰有羽毛、迷宫和互锁网格等图案的华丽衣服,服饰种类繁多,有斗篷披肩、连帽衫,也有改良过的和服和泡泡袖连衣裙。

Kota 对 ADER Error、Undercover 和 Kenzo 等一众街头品牌十分喜爱,并将这份喜爱体现在他的作品当中,例如叠穿和宽松廓形的运用。“从一张 2D 设计草图,最终变成 3D 可穿戴的服装,本身就是一个很有趣的过程。作品中的这些衣服,某种程度上算是一种致敬吧。” 他笑着说道。

The settings that his characters inhabit come as afterthoughts for Yamaji. In fact, backdrops are often just a single block of color. Even when props appear, whether it be couches and chairs or washing machines, they come in similar shades as the characters’ clothing or their immediate surrounding. This isn’t due to a lack of effort of creativity though—the minimalism is by design. “I want people to focus on my characters, so I don’t usually add buildings or complicated backgrounds,” he explains.


至于角色所处的背景,Kota 习惯在人物完成之后再去构思。事实上,他的作品背景通常都只是单一的纯色。即使放置道具,无论是沙发、椅子还是洗衣机,它们的色调也往往与角色的衣服或周围环境趋同。这当然不是为了敷衍,而是他刻意而为的极简主义风格。他解释道:“我希望人们关注我所创作的角色,因此我不太喜欢添加建筑物或复杂的背景在角色身后。”

In a separate series, Yamaji’s humanoid characters are gone entirely, replaced by realistic animals standing or floating in front of monochromatic backgrounds. With this project, he gleefully plays with contrasts; the organic forms of these animals are juxtaposed against rigid structures of minerals and crystals, which sprout and jut freely from their bodies.

Yamajii doesn’t claim to be working around any implicit messaging around conservation or environmentalism—he admits that this project was simply an exercise in aesthetics. Even though there’s obvious virtue in creating works that prod into deeper concepts, he finds no shame in creating art that simply satisfies his own creative curiosity.


在另一个独立系列中,角色被取代成了动物。坚硬的矿石和晶体在动物身上野蛮生长、伸展,与动物本体形成有趣的对比。

Kota 表示该系列不过是他的一次美学尝试,并非旨在传达环境保护或环保主义。虽然深层意义能赋予作品更多价值,但他认为,纯粹为满足自己的创意欲望而进行创作,也无可厚非。

This insistence on being himself, without pretense, seems to be a quality that transfers to the characters who populate his universe. Through the way they dress, it’s clear that they—like their creator—aren’t afraid of staying against the grain. “There are many illustrators who are better than me, but I’m not interested in competing with them,” Yamaji says. “I just want to create art that doesn’t feel typical.”


这种坚持自我、不屑于伪装的态度同样体现在他的角色身上,他们的着装风格与这位艺术家一样,无惧于开辟自己独有的道路。“有很多插画师都比我优秀,但我没有兴趣和他们比。我只是想创造不一样的,属于我个人的作品。”Kota 说道。

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Contributor: David Yen
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供稿人: David Yen
英译中: Olivia Li

Modern Troglodytes 创作是我的解压阀

December 21, 2021 2021年12月21日

Art provides a unique means of coping in times of crisis. It allows artists to express themselves and for viewers to find common ground through the experiences of others. To try and deal with the effects of the pandemic, Filipino artist Epjey Pacheco has produced a large body of work exploring the psychological challenges of life during cascading lockdowns and his experiences with death. “Art has always been a way for me to express things I can’t put into words, feelings that I can’t comprehend,” he explains. “My work is a reflection of my state of mind, like a timestamp of whatever I was feeling or thinking at that moment.”

Pacheco’s Into The Haze series is a mixed-medium collection of greyscale works that wander into the foggy depths of isolation, anxiety, and pain. Even prior to this, his artwork was angsty and abrasive, touching on themes of mortality and despair. This new series, which is grounded in his first-hand experiences, is perhaps the bleakest to date. “The lockdowns have weighed on me hard,” he says. “Not seeing friends or loved ones. My father got sick with COVID. I had to camp out in the hospital for four days to secure a private room for him. I saw the emergency ward overwhelmed with patients and crying relatives in the lobby. I witnessed a person dying who couldn’t get admitted. It really fucked me up.”


即便在人类的危难时刻,艺术也可以为人们提供一种特别的应对方式,艺术家可藉此表达自我,而观众则能从他人的经历中获得共鸣,获得内心的疗愈。面对疫情带来的影响,菲律宾艺术家 Epjey Pacheco 创作了大量作品,探索接二连三的封锁所带来的心理挑战以及与死亡相关的亲身经历。他解释说:“艺术一直是我的一种表达方式,帮助我表达无法言喻的事物,以及难以理清的情感。我的作品折射出我的内心世界,就像一个个时间戳,记录下我在当下那一刻的感受或思考。”

Epjey 的《Into The Haze》(深入雾霭) 是一系列采用混合媒介创作的灰色调作品,带领观众走入孤立、焦虑和痛苦的迷雾深处。其实在此之前,他的作品也常常充满着焦虑和不快的氛围,探讨死亡和绝望这类主题,但从风格来说,这个基于他亲身经历而创作的系列可能是迄今为止最黯淡的。他说:“封锁给我带来了沉重的打击。我见不到朋友或亲人。我父亲也感染上了新冠肺炎,我在医院搭帐篷露宿了四天,只是为了让他能够排上床位。我看到急诊室里挤满了病人,大厅里都是哭泣的亲人,还亲眼目睹无法入院的人离世。这一切对我的打击很大。”

In the series, airbrush-stenciled fog and silhouetted mountains float mysteriously in the background. A wild creature, painted with ink, watercolor, and acrylic, roams the monochromatic landscape. “This is the damuho character I formulated specifically for the series,” Pacheco says, explaining that it’s a Tagalog derogatory term roughly translating to “savage” or “ignorant.”

“When things get out of hand and human instinct kicks in, survival and savagery ensue,” Pacheco says. “I distinctly remember that feeling in a local grocery store while looking for alcohol and masks as people went on panic buying sprees just before the start of the first lockdown.”


系列中,模版喷枪的迷雾与山脉剪影神秘地漂浮在背景中。而在黑白色的风景中,一只用墨水、水彩和丙烯颜料绘画的野兽徘徊其中。Epjey 说:“这只野兽是我专门为这个系列创作的角色‘damuho’。”Damuho是一个带贬义的他加禄语用词,大意为“野蛮”或“无知”。

他解释道:“当形势失控,人类的本能被激发出来,生存竞争和野蛮行径也就随之而来。我清楚地记得就在第一次实施封锁措施时,我到当地杂货店买酒精和口罩时的那个场景,所有人都在争先恐后地争抢商品。”

To portray these primitive instincts, Pacheco’s damuho is drawn like a primate or neanderthal, with unkempt hair, a muscular physique, and exposed nerves and tendons. In one illustration, he’s riding atop a rocket, and in another, he’s curled up drunk at the base of a goblet. “War and religion are some of the most common preoccupations of men,” he explains of these two drawings.

A mash-up of animal parts, other Catholic symbols, and confusing limbs are common motifs in other scenes. In several images, the damuho is seen unraveling as he stares into the mirror, a visualization of its rapidly declining mental state.


Damuho 形似灵长类动物或尼安德特人,披头散发、肌肉发达。他的神经和肌腱在暴露在外,或乘坐着火箭,或烂醉如泥地蜷缩于高脚杯下。他解释了画中出现的因素:“战争和宗教是人类最关注的问题之一。”

在其他作品中,动物部位、天主教符号和交缠的四肢也是常见的元素。在其中几幅作品中,镜子中的 Damuho 已处于几近崩溃的精神状态。

There’s an immediacy to Pacheco’s work, the feeling that he’s rushing to get his feelings down on paper while they’re still vivid in his mind and soul. Although the series was planned and based on a pile of sketches drawn beforehand, that directness is a result of his temperament and inspirations. “I’m very impatient, so I don’t like to wait around for oil paints to dry. I also like the fact that there’s no erasing once I make a mark with ink on paper—there are no do overs.” This is also true of tattoo art, which he draws direct reference from, particularly traditional tattoos with their angular shapes, bold lines, and condensed imagery.


Epjey 的作品有一种急切感,感觉他正迫不及待要将让自己当下内心的感受宣泄在纸上。尽管他在创作整个系列时,已事先构思好,并画了一堆草图,但这种急切感其实来源于他的性格和创作灵感。“我是个很没耐心的人,我不喜欢坐等油画颜料干燥,我更喜欢落下的每一笔都不会被擦掉,这样就没有任何多余的笔画。”这一点与纹身艺术不谋而合,而纹身其实也是他的灵感来源之一,特别是棱角分明、线条醒目和意像凝炼的传统纹身。

Alongside Into The Haze, Pacheco created a diptych in baroque style, titled Fragility and Torment. These works are similarly done in black and white, but the scenes are much more complicated, with skeletal body parts and unsettling eyeballs throughout the composition.

Then there is his Safe Haven series, which revolves around the theme of searching for peace in a tempestuous world. In wanting to convey a sense of calm, he abandoned the blacks-and-whites of his previous series for soothing blues. “I wanted a serene feel to the series, as the name implies, hence the colors and softer textures,” he says. “I think I was trying to reassure myself that everything will be fine eventually, while in reality, I was really scared.”


除了《Into The Haze》(深入雾霭) ,Epjey 还创作了巴洛克风格的双联画,取名《Fragility》(脆弱) 和《Torment》(折磨) 。这些作品同样为黑白色,但有着更强烈的情绪,整个画面充斥着露骨与痛苦。

此外,他还创作了《Safe Haven》(安稳天堂)  系列,以柔和的蓝色调和严肃的气氛,来表达在动荡世界中寻求和平的主题。他说:“顾名思义,我想创作一个风格相对缓和的系列,颜色和纹理会和之前不大一样。我大概是想努力让自己相信,一切都会好起来的,但现实中的我其实充满恐惧。”

From theSafe Havenseries 来自《Safe Haven》系列
From theSafe Havenseries 来自《Safe Haven》系列
From theSafe Havenseries 来自《Safe Haven》系列

Through these turbulent months, his artwork has been a much-needed relief valve. In fact, he’s been more productive than ever during the pandemic. But that in itself is a manifestation of some problems. “The energy that fuels my work these days can be a bit toxic,” Pacheco notes. “It’s a product of inner turmoil. So I don’t know if I need to cut down a bit or what.”

Overall, he counts himself lucky. “I’m acutely aware of how much luckier I am than most. Being able to continue drawing and practicing my art in times like this has made me appreciate it all so much more.”


在这动荡不安的一年半里,艺术创作成为了他必不可缺的减压阀。事实上,他在疫情期间比以往任何时候都更高产,但这本身就说明了问题。Epjey 指出:“最近我的创作动力来源可能不那么健康,更多是一种内心不安的产物,所以我也不确定自己是否应该放慢一下。”

总的来说,他认为自己很幸运。“我清楚地意识到我比大多数人幸运得多,因为在这样的时期,我还能继续画画和创作,我也因此心存感激。”

Like our stories? Follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

 

Instagram: @epjey

 

Contributor: Mike Steyels
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


喜欢我们的故事?欢迎关注我们 Neocha 的微博微信

 

Instagram: @epjey

 

供稿人: Mike Steyels
英译中: Olivia Li

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All Shapes & Sizes 女人该有怎样的身材?

December 16, 2021 2021年12月16日
Stuck in Limbo 《进退两难》

From a young age, Summer de Guia was often the butt of ridicule. Bullies targeted her for her appearances, and the constant harassment eventually resulted in innumerable insecurities about her own body. Critical of her own looks even as she got older, she started projecting the flaws she saw onto others with snide remarks. Eventually, she realized the toxicity of this own behavior, and in wanting to shed this ugly side of her personality, she turned to painting.


小时候的 Summer de Guia 因为外貌经常被嘲笑和霸凌,这些经历最终导致她对自己的身体严重缺乏安全感。即使长大之后,她依然习惯性地对自己的外貌吹毛求疵,并开始用难听的言语将自己看到的外貌缺陷投射到他人身上。直至后来,她意识到这种行为的恶劣,为了摆脱自己性格中丑陋的一面,她转向了绘画。

Salvation is Within Reach 《救赎就在眼前》
Surviving 《幸存》

Art became a form of therapy, a way for her to reassert authority over her insecurities. Creative expression taught her to respect, understand, and find beauty in bodies of all types, including her own. “My subjects ultimately represent myself,” she explains.

Guia only hit her strides as an artist in 2020. The lockdown in Manila meant she was stuck at home, where she dedicated herself to painting. It was during this time that she honed in on her current aesthetic, a style that she cites as being influenced by Takato Yamamoto and Kristen Liu-Wong. The idea of mixing acrylic and oil paint and achieving a cleaner finish is the direct result of their influence. As for the body-image theme that now defines her oeuvre, that only came about in early 2021, when an exhibition curator encouraged her to break out of her comfort zone. “I was scared that it wouldn’t be taken well,” Guia recalls. “But these were thematics that I wanted to do for the longest time.”


艺术成为了她疗愈的途径,让她得以重新掌控对长相的不安。她在创意表达中学会了尊重、理解,以及发现各种身材体态的美感,包括自己的身体。“我笔下的人物其实就是我自己,”她解释道。

作为艺术家,Summer 的创作在 2020 年突飞猛进。自从马尼拉实施封锁措施后,她就一直困在家里,期间她全身心投入到绘画中,不断锤炼自己的风格。她表示,自己现在的创作风格主要受日本浮世绘大师山本高远(Takato Yamamoto)和 Kristen Liu-Wong 的影响——混合丙烯酸和油画颜料以呈现更简洁利落的画面便是这种影响的直接体现。至于她现在为人熟知的身体形象主题,那是在 2021 年初,一位展览策展人鼓励她突破自己的舒适区后,她才开始进行这方面的创作。“我害怕人们不喜欢这样的作品,但这其实是我一直以来很想创作的主题,” Summer 回忆道。

I'm a Slave to Your Games 《我是你游戏的奴隶》
Forget Safety, Destroy Your Reputation 1 《忘记安全感,毁掉自己的声誉 (二)》
Forget Safety, Destroy Your Reputation 2 《忘记安全感,毁掉自己的声誉 (二)》

Observing Guia’s art, the body image and self-esteem issues that previously haunted her are immediately front and center. In Envy Shoots at Others and Wounds Itself, women of varying ethnicities and body types appear in frame, gazing at one another’s nude physiques. They appear unsure, as if suspicious of one another. The inclusion of yellow hyacinths serves a symbol of jealousy and is used to further emphasize the envy and mistrust she hoped to capture. “I painted this one to portray how all of us have our own insecurities and most of us are not content and happy with what was given to us,” she explains. “We always compare ourselves to others. We get envious of another, but the person we are envious of is also envious of another. It is a never-ending cycle. Envy attacks others but brings us pain instead.”


在 Summer 的作品中,最突出的莫过于之前一直困扰着她的身材和自尊问题。在《Envy Shoots at Others and Wounds Itself》(妒忌别人,害了自己),不同种族和身体的女性互相凝视着彼此赤裸的身体,她们面露不安,仿佛在相互猜疑。画中的黄色风信子象征着嫉妒,进一步强调出她想要表达的嫉妒和猜忌。她解释道:“我画这幅画是为了揭示我们所有人内心的不安,大多数人都很嫌弃自己天生的身体,总觉得不满,总是把自己与其他人进行比较。嫉妒别人,但其实我们所嫉妒的人同时也会嫉妒别人,就像一个永无止境的循环。嫉妒让我们产生攻击的念头,只会招来更多痛苦。”

Envy Shoots at Others and Wounds Itself 《妒忌别人,害了自己》

In No One Wants To See Life Fading Away, three women with disproportionate bodies appear in frame, baring it all. One cradles her baby atop an ornate couch, another saunters across the frame tending to her flowers, and the final lady is knelt on the ground, applying lotion to her arms. This appreciation for life is displayed in three different ways. For the young mother, it’s shown in the way she lovingly cradles her baby. For the second woman, life force is represented by her flowers, which she intently tends to. For the elderly woman, the preservation of vitality is shown in the way she applies lotion to her arms; it’s clear that she hopes to turn back the clock, or at least pause time, on her wrinkling skin.


作品《No One Wants To See Life Fading Away》(没人愿意看到生命的流逝) 描绘了三个身材比例不协调的女人,她们浑身赤裸出现在画框中。其中一个女人抱着襁褓中的孩子,蜷卧在古典沙发上,一个生命的开始代表着另一个生命的流逝;在她身后,另一个大腹便便的女人,正高傲地欣赏着手中的盆栽,盆栽虽然茂盛,却有几只正在凋零下来;另一边,年迈的女士跪坐在地上,她正在涂抹身体乳液,让时间在皮肤上暂停下来。

No One Wants To See Life Fading Away 《没人愿意看到生命的流逝》
Quietest and Most Powerful Revolution 《最为寂静且强大的革命》
Waiting is a Trap 《等待是圈套》

As Guia’s following grew, people messaged her, saying that they were grateful to be properly represented through the diverse physiques of her art. Some have asked the Filipino artist if she’s a feminist or an advocate of women empowerment, but Guia hopes to steer clear of the stereotypes, misconceptions, and repercussions that come with these labels. “We have different ways of supporting what we believe in and this is my way,” she says. “I believe that I don’t have to self-identify as anything. I just let my artwork do the talking.”


随着 Summer 粉丝越来越多,有人私信她,感谢她在作品中展示多样化的身材。有人问过她是否是一名女权主义者或女性赋权的倡导者,但她希望摆脱这些标签带来的刻板印象、误解和影响。她说:“我们可以用不同的方式来支持自己的信仰,这就是我的方式。我觉得我不必标榜自己是什么人,我的作品自然会说明一切。”

No Anger No Doubt They Have All Been Released 《她们都被释放》
Hope is a Dangerous Thing 《希望带来危险》

While the lockdown initially helped her find her voice as an artist, COVID-19 has also been a source of frustration. “There’s a whole lot of things that I want to do, but I can’t because there’s a pandemic going on, and I live in a country where there isn’t much progress,” she says. “I feel very stuck and restricted. I just turned 24 but I feel like I’m wasting my youth and my goals are so out of reach.”

These pent-up emotions are visualized in Hell-bent to Do Something, which portrays a naked woman arching her body at such a drastic angle that her ribcage protrudes through her skin. The pose and gesticulation, with her kneeling posture, arms outstretched, and seemingly distraught demeanor visualizes Guia’s longing to break free.


虽然疫情导致的封锁措施帮助她找到了自己作为艺术家的声音,但也让她倍感沮丧。她说:“因为疫情,我有很多想做的事情都无法进行,而且我所生活的这个国家在这方面一直没什么进展,这让我感到非常受困,束手束脚。我刚满 24 岁,现在的我感觉是在浪费青春,我想实现的目标变得那么遥不可及。”

在作品《Hell-bent to Do Something》(拼命去做) 中,这些压抑的情绪得以形象化:一个裸体女人以夸张的角度拱起身体,以至于她的胸骨突起。从这个姿势和她的手势、跪姿以及张开的双臂,透露出一股心烦意乱,形象地展示了 Summer 心中想要挣脱束缚的渴望。

Hell-Bent on Doing Something 《拼命去做》

The settings of her paintings are also worthwhile to note. She often places her subjects within castles, palaces, mansions, or chateaus decorated with golden furnishings and subdued colors. These are spaces she daydreamed about during the lockdown. As a self-professed history buff, she explains that classical European and oriental designs have always fascinated her, even more so than contemporary styles. “I like looking at something that reminds me of the past. Maybe this is my extreme pessimism, but I dislike the future. I hate uncertainty,” she explains.


她的作品中的背景设定也值得一提,例如金色家具内饰、柔淡色调的城堡墙壁、宫殿、豪宅等等。这些都是她在疫情封锁期间幻想的空间。Summer 喜欢历史,比起现代风格,她更着迷于古典的欧式和东方设计。“我喜欢看一些能让我回想过去的事物,这也许和我内心的悲观情绪有关,我不喜欢未来,厌恶未知,”她解释道。

Ageing is a Myth 《年龄是个谜》
Drown Out the Voices of People Who Don’t Matter to You 《淹没哪些不重要的声音》
I Don't Care If It Hurts Raw 《对于受伤,我不在乎》
Out of Eden 《伊甸园外》

Guia regards a person’s nude form to be the most primitive state of man, their purest form, one stripped of all pretension.  She recognizes that people seem to accept the body standards of women social media and advertisements endorse. “No matter if it’s modelesque or big and wrinkly, people always have something to say,” she says. By painting different figures, she aspires to represent realistic bodies, feigning disinterests to any forms of criticisms over her artworks.

She’s completely veered away from painting what might be considered as “ideal body proportions” in mainstream media, as she believes they don’t represent realistic physiques. Guia hopes that by painting female figures in varying forms and sizes, it will encourage people not to bow to a certain standard, but to look at women’s bodies in their entirety. “May they find beauty no matter how different they may be.”


Summer 把裸体看作是人最原始的状态,最纯粹的形式,没有丝毫的伪装。她发现,人们似乎总是会以社交媒体和广告中的女性体态为标准。她说:“无论是像模特那样纤瘦,或是身材肥胖、皮肤松弛,人们总要指手划脚。” 她希望能绘画不同的身材,展现现实中看到的身形,从不在乎那些批评她作品的声音。

她拒绝描绘主流媒体的“理想的身体比例”,因为在她看来,这样的身材并不能反映现实。Summer 希望通过绘画不同体型的女性形象,鼓励人们不要屈从于特定的审美标准,拒绝狭隘的目光,将女性视作整体,她说:“希望人们能在不同的身材中发现各自的美。”

Like our stories? Follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

 

Instagram: @summer.deguia

 

Contributor: Matthew Burgos
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


喜欢我们的故事?欢迎关注我们 Neocha 的微博微信

 

Instagram: @summer.deguia

 

供稿人: Matthew Burgos
英译中: Olivia Li

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In Darkness, We Shine 黑暗让光芒变得更为闪耀

December 14, 2021 2021年12月14日

Light shines the brightest in darkness. It’s a saying that holds especially true in the works of Soman, a South Korean artist who’s crafted a world of permanent nightfall. Between the dense black ink, only twinkles of light penetrate the shadows—whether it be a flickering candle, celestial bodies that drift through the skies, or moonlit droplets of rain. This interplay between darkness and light, presented in dramatic monochrome, results in moments of pure magic.


韩国艺术家 Soman 的作品往往从黑暗中透露出耀眼的光芒。那里的世界被黑暗笼罩,却总有光线向外发光,有时是烟火,有时是星宿,或是晶莹剔透的水波反光。戏剧性的黑白色画面,呈现黑暗与光明的强烈对比,瞬间抓住你的眼球,沉浸于画面中的奇妙。

In both Soman’s illustration and animated GIFs, a constant drizzle drenches all those who inhabit his world. These characters also frequently appear in sleeping gowns, almost as if they’re wandering through an unending dream. In some illustrations, gusts of wind turn rain into swirling water that wraps around them; in others, these same characters have found shelter within palaces, and they stare out of its ornate windows, quietly watching the downpour.


在 Soman 的插画和动态 GIF 作品中,微风和细雨,总是拍打在角色身上。他们常穿睡袍出现在画面上,仿佛正徘徊于绕无边际的梦境;大风把雨水吹成漩涡,环绕在角色身旁;富丽堂皇的建筑内,角色向窗外张望,静静地凝视这大雨的滂沱。

At times though, his characters can seem as if they’re not even the main focus of the frame, only serving to demonstrate a sense of scale for the surreal environment. Take, for example, an illustration with an arched gate perched within a sea of clouds. Standing before it, a minuscule figure stares through the doorway, in awe at the cosmic setting just beyond the threshold.

In another, a lone girl is seated on a small patch of grass that occupies the bottom corner of the composition. Throughout the rest of the frame, a violent riptide swirls in the darkness. The texture and particles give it the resemblance of water; however, the perspective suggests this maelstrom of movement is possibly not taking place in a body of water but rather a cosmic event unfolding in the night sky.


有时,这些角色似乎不是作品的焦点,他们只是为了烘托更为强烈的超现实色彩。例如,一个拱门坐落在云海中;前方,女孩静静地凝望,强烈对比之下,视觉的张力得以充分体现。

在另一幅插画里,孤独的女孩坐在一小撮儿翠绿的草地上,凝视着面前的涛浪。乍看下,那股水流像是漩涡,但定睛一看,它却汹涌在浩瀚的银河。

No matter how hectic it gets though, Soman’s characters rarely appear in distress. They’re more often in astonishment at the sheer beauty of the unfolding events or simply at peace with the world. Even in one illustration where one of his characters appears to be being washed away by a gigantic droplet of rain, he looks delighted as he grabs on, almost as if he was on an amusement park ride.


任凭风吹雨打,角色却毫不在意,甚至沉浸在这风景,全然融入周遭世界的浪潮。在一幅插画中,硕大的水滴带着男孩飞翔,男孩表情愉悦,不顾眼前的安危,只在自己的世界里嬉闹。

Even though black-and-white art is often associated with negative emotions such as sorrow, grief, or fear, Soman’s work upends these expectations. Instead, a sense of optimism, wonder, and youthful curiosity courses through his illustrations. And it’s precisely these qualities that give his nocturnal world its unique spark, one that keeps the viewers’ imaginations piqued and wanting for more.


虽然黑白艺术通常与悲伤、痛苦或恐惧等负面情绪联系在一起,但 Soman 的作品颠覆了这些预期。相反,乐观、奇妙与天真烂漫贯穿了他的作品,也正是这一特质,赋予他的黑白世界不一样的火花,令人心弛神往。

Like our stories? Follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

 

Website: soman-illustrator.com
Instagram
: @so.m.an
Behance: ~/soman_

 

Contributor:  David Yen
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


喜欢我们的故事?欢迎关注我们 Neocha 的微博微信

 

Website: soman-illustrator.com
Instagram
: @so.m.an
Behance: ~/soman_

 

供稿人: David Yen
英译中: Olivia Li

Metallic Skin 空山基与他的全金属机械姬

December 9, 2021 2021年12月9日
©Hajime Sorayama

With their metallic skin, Hajime Sorayama‘s hyperrealistic gynoids have earned their place in the 20th-century pop icon hall of fame. They’ve appeared in advertising campaigns, fashion shows, and album covers. The most notable example of the latter is Aerosmith’s Just Push Play, in which a Sorayama gynoid mimics Marilyn Monroe’s subway scene with the wind blowing her dress from below.


空山基所创作的超现实主义机械姬 (Gynoid) 以一袭金属皮肤造就了二十世纪的流行标志,成为广告大片、时装秀和专辑封面的常客。其中最为人熟知的,莫过于美国硬摇滚乐团 Aerosmith 专辑《Just Push Play》封面上的造型,空山基所画的机械姬效仿玛丽 · 莲梦露,摆出双手遮挡裙子的经典姿势。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

Sorayama is an influential figure in the development of notions of futurism and mechanical aesthetics. He was one of the first to inaugurate the idea of a robot as a sensual being. Still, Sorayama holds his characters in much more affectionate esteem than erotic or utilitarian. “They are not sex machines,” he says, categorically. He’s in no way objectifying women.


在未来主义和机械美学发展史上,空山基算得上是举足轻重的人物,也是最早创作情色风格机器人的艺术家之一。空山基拒绝物化女性,他对自己一手打造的角色有着超乎情欲或功利心之外的情感,“她们不是性爱机器,”他斩钉截铁地说道。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

His gynoids are full-grown and full-figured women, and he emphasizes their femininity using the cliches of a sexy female figure. They’re all tall and slender, with hourglass-shaped bodies, perfect teardrop breasts, curvy hips, and long, beautiful legs. He depicts their anatomy with impressive exactitude, a striking effect when juxtaposed with the mechanical characteristics they bear—rivets, joints, bolts, air vents, and a brilliant metallic outer coating.

Other robotic features also appear, such as visor eyes, antenna ears, and serial numbers. Sometimes they bear cryptic messages debossed in their bodies, such as “platinum dream,” “cyber discipline,” “corruptrix,” and “we all got screwed!” The gynoid who bears the latter is pleasing herself with a screw, literally. Sorayama also includes a trademark symbol, his iconic logo, and the manufacturing year in all of them, invariably.


无一例外,这些“金属打造”的机械姬都是身材丰润的成熟女性,空山基按照世俗审美,以性感来标榜她们的身躯。她们大都身形修长,有如沙漏般婀娜身姿,拥有近乎完美的身材。拟人的身体结构,与裸露的机械细节 (铆钉、连接件、螺栓、通风口和锃亮的金属外涂层) 形成了令人惊艳的视觉对比。

像很多科幻电影中常见的机器人一样,机械姬同样拥有护目镜、天线耳朵和序列号标记。有时,她们的身体上还会刻上一些带有象征意味的字符,比如“platinum dream”(白金梦)、“cyber discipline”(网络纪律)、“corruptrix”、“we all got screwed!” 等等。另外,空山基还会在她们身上画上商标符号、他的个人标志以及制造年份。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

His gynoids seldom wear clothes. Most of the time, they are entirely naked. And even though they are objects, they don’t look objectified. Instead, they appear confident as if they were the ones in control—in control of their sexuality and of whoever or whatever crosses their way. They’re undeniably sensual, and their attitude is as sexy as it is inspiring. “Female fans have told me they want to look like my work when they become robots in the future. That makes me happy,” Sorayama says.


他的机械姬大多数时候都是赤身裸体,她们并无生命,却与被“物化”毫不沾边。相反,她们看起来却像是自信霸气的女王,仿佛牢牢掌握住命运的主动权——掌控着自己的性欲、选择她们身边的任何人或事物。毋庸置疑,她们性感美艳,但同时又释放出一股鼓舞人心的力量。空山基说:“我很开心听到女粉丝告诉我,将来如果她们变成机器人,她们希望自己变成我的作品那样。”

©Hajime Sorayama

Born in 1947 in Imabari, Sorayama grew up in post-war Japan, a time of nationwide transformation and growing American influence. He began drawing pinup-style women in high school, inspired by the risqué photographs he saw in Playboy. In 1965, he enrolled at Shikoku Gakuin University to study English literature and Ancient Greek. There, he published an illustration magazine titled Pink Journal. But the publication wasn’t well-received by the faculty and students due to its highly sexual content. Not surprising, considering Shikoku Gakuin was a Christian university. While others were attending Mass in the campus’ chapel, Sorayama was pasting erotic art on the walls. It was a matter of time until he got kicked out.

Sorayama then transferred to Tokyo’s Chuo Bijutsu Gakuen to study art, where he graduated in 1969 and landed a job in advertising. “When I started working, I remembered I had been praised for my drawings when I was a child,” he says. “Since I wasn’t good at anything else, I became an illustrator. I admired Da Vinci and Hokusai at the time, but I drew what I liked, and the result is what I am today.”


空山基于 1947 年出生于今治,在战后的日本长大,正值日本进行全国改革和美国影响日益增强的时期。在看了《花花公子》中风格大胆的照片后,他从高中开始手绘海报女郎。1965 年,他进入四国学院大学学习英语文学和古希腊语,期间还出版了一本名为《Pink Journal》(粉红杂志) 的插画杂志。但由于内容过于情色,这本杂志并不受教职员工和学生的欢迎。这也并不奇怪,毕竟四国学院是一所基督教大学。当其他人在学校的小教堂参加弥撒时,空山基却在墙上张贴情色艺术作品。最终,他被学校开除。

空山基随后转入东京中央学院大学学习艺术专业,1969 年毕业后进入了广告行业工作。他说:“我记得那时候大家都称赞我的画画得好,加上我没什么特别擅长的,所以最后选择成为一名插画师。当时我很欣赏达芬奇和葛饰北斋,但我还是按照自己的喜好来画,最终就形成了现在的创作风格。”

©Hajime Sorayama

In the late 1970s, with an established reputation as a freelance illustrator, a friend asked him to draw a poster for Suntory Whisky. The original idea was for the ad to feature C-3PO, the golden humanoid robot from Star Wars. But facing copyright issues and running on a tight deadline, his friend asked Sorayama to design a replacement. Sorayama’s solution wound up being his first-ever robot artwork, which was a genderless droid with arms and legs as skinny as toothpicks and shiny platinum skin. Inspired by the project, he expanded on the idea and drew a mechanical woman next. “It was the first sexy robot I drew,” he says. His gynoid was born.

In 1983, Sorayama published Sexy Robot, a book compiling his sensual robot drawings up until then. It was an instant hit. They appeared in a clear pinup style, striking poses that accentuated their bodies, like sitting on their knees, fixing their hair with both hands up, or lying on their backs with legs up in the air. It was all very suggestive, and it contrasted with their silvery-white and seemingly cold skin. Such a novelty fascinated the public, and Sorayama quickly became a cult hero.

Pin-Up, a second book, came right after, this time depicting real women with elements of fetishism such as latex and leather. Not long after, he was invited to illustrate the pages of the very magazines he was inspired by—Playboy and Penthouse. In general, Sorayama also borrows from mythical or fictional icons such as Wonder Woman or the goddess Venus. He also draws human-robot hybrids. But through it all, he maintains his signature hyper-realistic pinup style.


到了 1970 年代末,他以自由插画家的身份站稳一席之地后,一位朋友邀请他为三得利威士忌画一幅海报。朋友们最初的想法是在广告中画《星球大战》中的金色人形机器人 C-3PO,但由于版权问题和截稿时间紧迫,朋友只好请空山基重新设计。而空山基所画的这个机器人最终成为了他有史以来的第一个机器人作品。这是一个无性别的机器人,其手臂和双腿细如竹签,外面由闪亮的铂金皮肤包裹。项目激发了他进一步扩展这个视觉概念,随后的一位机器女人,标志着机械姬的正式问世。

1983 年,空山基出版了《Sexy Robot》(性感机器人) 一书,收录了他在那之前所创作的所有性感机器人作品。这本书一经出版便轰动一时。他笔下的机械姬充满强烈的画报女郎风格,充满性暗示的姿势,与她们银白色的冰冷皮肤形成鲜明对比。这种新颖的画风吸引着大众的眼球,空山基也一跃成为备受追捧的插画家。

紧随其后,他又出版了第二本书《Pin-Up》(画报女郎) ,这一次,他加入了乳胶和皮革等恋物癖元素。自那之后,他获邀不断,曾为当初他的启蒙刊物——《花花公子》和《阁楼》(Penthouse) 创作。空山基在创作时也会借鉴神话或虚构角色,如神奇女侠或女神维纳斯。除此之外,他还画许多机械半人,但始终保持了他标志性的超写实画报女郎风格。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

It’s only reasonable to assume that Sorayama would have faced some form of backlash from specific demographics for the salacious nature of his work, especially in Japan, where society can be notably conservative. “Not once,” he denies it. “I never thought of eroticism as a bad thing, and I think that the people who look at my pictures understand exactly what I mean.”

Women were at the very heart of robot depictions. One of the first robots to appear in science fiction—and perhaps the most influential until today—was Maria in Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). Maria has a similar appearance to Sorayama’s robots with her metallic armor, shapely hips, and prominent breasts. However, she’s stiff, walking with no fluid motion or showing emotions on her face. Even if she’s not meant to be sexual, Maria was born from her mad creator’s infatuation with an ex-lover and was supposed to take in her personality and figure.

Another influential robot to appear in science fiction was the HAL 9000 computer from Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968). HAL does not resemble a human being in any physical way—he’s merely a fisheye lens with a red dot at its center, more akin to the eye of hell. But he’s human-like in his soothing male voice and his sentience. And that’s the most chilling part. In one of the most memorable scenes, HAL turns on his creators to save himself from being disconnected and to prevent the abortion of his mission.

In such a way, Kubrick inaugurates our underlying fear of artificial intelligence and the notion that machines could also be capable of powerful emotions. 2001 is a film renowned for its artistic and technical excellence, realism, and immersive quality that influenced everything that ensued in science fiction, including George Lucas’ Star Wars, released about a decade later.


当然,空山基这种充满情色风格的作品必然会遭到人群的抗议,尤其在保守的日本。对此,他回应道:“我从不认为情色是一件坏事,我相信看我作品的人能够理解我的用意。”

女性一直是人类构想机器人的核心。德国导演 Fritz Lang 的电影《大都会》(1927) 中的玛丽亚 (Maria) 是最早出现在科幻片中的机器人之一,而且可以说是迄今为止影响最深远的机器人。玛丽亚的外表与空山基的机械姬相似,都披着金属盔甲,有着丰润的身段。但她举止僵硬,行走动作并不流畅,脸上也不会表露任何情绪。虽然玛丽亚没有任何情色的意味,但她的创作者在设计玛丽亚时是以他的前任情人为原型的,并参照了她的个性与身材。

另一个科幻影片中的著名机器人是斯坦利·库布里克 (Stanley Kubrick) 的《2001太空漫游》(1968) 中的超级计算机 HAL 9000。在外观上,HAL 与人类毫无联系,他只是一个鱼眼镜头。但他也有人性一面——温柔的男性声音和情感感知力,这恰恰是最令人不寒而栗的地方。在影片最令人难忘的场景之一,为了避免自己被断开网络,HAL 试图欺骗他的发明者,以避免他的任务流产。

库布里克以这种方式揭开了人类对人工智能的潜在恐惧,让人们意识到,机器也可以产生强烈的情感,也就是人们常常提到的”恐怖谷”概念。《2001太空漫游》拥有一流的艺术和技术效果、现实主义和身临其境氛围,并深深影响了其后的科幻影片,包括大约乔治·卢卡斯 (George Lucas) 在大概 10 年后执导的影片《星球大战》。

©Hajime Sorayama

Lucas, however, presents his robots, RDD2 and C-3PO, as much more sympathetic characters and as a comic relief duo in the plot. Interestingly, the design of C-3PO was largely inspired by Metropolis‘ Maria. Star Wars is also influenced by Japanese culture, notably Akira Kurosawa’s films and Samurai philosophy. Its plot is deeply ingrained with mythological motifs, and, as Lucas himself said, it tells an “old myth in a new way” dealing with contemporary issues. To him, precisely for this reason, the saga gained so much resonance.

Sorayama drew his first pin-up gynoids amidst and because of the Star Wars craze of the late 1970s, and he embedded them with the same mythical quality as the film. Admittedly, the traces of fetishism he embeds in his drawings are less of a sexual nature than they are a way of idealizing women. His characters exude powerful femininity, and appear as unattainable goddesses, liberated from patriarchy. And that’s the impression he has of pin-ups from a young age, anyway. “(…) In our day, these pin-ups were like goddesses,” Sorayama said in a 2012 interview. “I guess I could describe it as my own goddess cult.”

Sorayama also sees a woman’s birth-giving capacity as a force to be reckoned with. “All humans are born from a woman and grow up breastfeeding. That’s why all men are mama’s boys,” he jokes. But then he adds in a more serious tone that women “are the source of life and the creators.” He expressed this fascination in the way he depicts the anatomy of the female body, with large hips, tender breasts—perfectly sketched to conceive and nurture a child.


然而,卢卡斯在影片中把机器人 RDD2 和 C-3PO 塑造成更讨喜的角色,并作为情节的喜剧元素。有趣的是,C-3PO 的设计很大程度上受到《大都会》机器人玛丽亚的启发。《星球大战》也受到日本文化的影响,尤其是黑泽明的电影和武士哲学。影片的故事情节糅合了各种神话元素,正如卢卡斯本人所说,这部影片是“以新的方式来讲述旧的神话”,探讨当代的问题。他也认为,正因如此,这系列的电影才获得了如此多的共鸣。

在 1970 年代末的星球大战风靡全球时,空山基创作了他的第一个性感机械姬,并和电影一样,为机械姬加入了神话的元素。诚然,他画中的恋物癖元素与其说是与性欲有关,倒不如说是一种理想化女性的方式。他笔下的角色散发出强烈的女性气质,以高不可攀的女神形象出现,摆脱父权体制的枷锁。而这其实也是他从小对画报女郎的印象。在 2012 年的一次采访中,空山基曾说:“……在我们那个时代,画报女郎就像女神一样。我想这可能也是我个人的女神崇拜。”

另外,空山基将女性的生育能力视为不可忽视的力量。“所有人都是由女性孕育的,接受母乳喂养长大,所以所有男人都是‘妈宝男’,”他开玩笑道,但随后他又一脸正色地补充道,女性“是生命的源泉和创造者”。他的这种迷恋也体现在他对女性身体的描绘上——丰满的臀部和柔软的乳房,勾勒出孕育孩子的理想身材。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

In a recent solo show at HOW Museum in Shanghai, Sorayama presented several of his pieces since he began drawing robots in the 1970s. The exhibition’s title, “Metropolis,” was a tribute to the homonymous film and Maria, who can be seen as a grandmother of sorts to his own character. In a piece from 2017, Sorayama gives the name of Maria to his gynoid and places her against one of Metropolis’ most famous plate shots, the vertigo-inducing cityscape intersected by roadway systems and airplanes, dominated by Lang’s new tower of Babel.

A highlight of the show was the collection of recently constructed life-size sculptures made of materials such as fiberglass, aluminum, and iron. Not constrained by the properties of the materials, Sorayama transferred the curvaceous and seemingly flexible characteristics of his gynoids into their 3D form seamlessly, bringing his vision to life as a tangible replica of his drawings. The way light and reflections play with their metallic surface is also remarkably similar to his illustrations, emphasizing his mastery of realism.

The display also included a large T-Rex sculpture and a variety of drawings of dinosaurs with the same robotic appearance as his women. When asked before why he likes dinosaurs, Sorayama merely laughed and replied in his typical humor, “I don’t know, I just do.” It’s all ambiguous, but dinosaurs are always associated with the past, and when juxtaposed with the advanced technology of robots, they could signify the confluence of two extremes—past and future.


在最近于上海昊美术馆举办的个展中,空山基展示了他自 1970 年代开始创作的几幅机器人作品。展览标题“大都会” (Metropolis) 也是对同名电影和玛丽亚的致敬,而玛丽亚也可以说是他所创作的机械姬角色的蓝本。在一幅创作于 2017 年的作品中,空山基为机械姬命名“玛丽亚”,背景是《大都会》最著名的场面之一:公路交通与飞机交汇成令人眩晕的城市景观,由 Fritz Lang 创作的全新巴别塔矗立于其中。

这次展览的一大亮点是一系列真人大小的雕塑装置,由玻璃纤维、铝和铁等材料制成。空山基摆脱了材料特性的限制,将他笔下机械姬的优美线条与灵活动作,移植于 3D 雕塑,将他的构想化为真实可触的装置。金属表面的光线与反射效果也与插图近乎一致,彰显了他对现实主义风格的自如运用。

这次展览还包括一个大型霸王龙雕塑和各类恐龙画作,这些恐龙和机械姬一样有着机器人的外观。空山基在之前被问到为什么喜欢恐龙时,都只是笑笑,用他一贯的幽默回答:“不知道,就是喜欢。”虽然他只给了模棱两可的回答,但恐龙通常都是与过去联系在一起,而现在与先进的机器人的结合,或许寓意着过去与未来的两极交汇。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

The most striking part of the exhibition was the recreation of the hotel room in 2001: A Space Odyssey, where some of Sorayama’s sculptures were shown, including his homage to Maria. The playful parallel with one of the most cryptic movies in cinema history highlights the same quality in Sorayama’s oeuvre. It also provides an immersive spectacle of what defined visions of the future in the 1970s and 80s, a formative period for his growth as an artist.


展览中最瞩目之处莫过于重现了《2001太空漫游》影片中的酒店房间场景。与这部电影史上最神秘的电影之一的有趣跨界,让观众感受 1970 和 1980 年代人们对未来的奇妙愿景,而这也是他作为艺术家,形成个人风格的时期。

©Hajime Sorayama

In the late 1980s, Sorayama drew a gynoid to star in the Japanese animated film The Humanoid (1986), and it caught the eye of Hollywood producers. In the 1990s, he consulted and collaborated with Western sci-fi blockbusters such as Timecop and Space Truckers. It was an extraordinary time for the genre. The evolution of computer graphics and special-effects technology made new ideas possible. Fast forward to 2013, George Lucas himself reached out to Sorayama for a contribution to the book Star Wars Concept. Sorayama drew a hyper-sexualized robot called Betty Droid, later included in the television animated series Clone Wars.

But his work in Hollywood hasn’t dampened his criticisms of the film industry. “Movies have indeed become a gigantic industry, and the benefits of this are that we have made great science fiction movies,” he says. “But I think there are also many negative effects, such as the worshipping of money.” Sorayama is also unsure about the future of the sci-fi genre once technology completely dominates our lives outside fiction. “Science-fiction movies were attractive when futuristic technology was still far away, but I don’t know if it will remain this way in the future.”


1980 年代后期,空山基为日本动画电影《人形机器人》(1986) 创作了机械姬角色,成功引起了好莱坞制片人的注意。1990 年代,他参与了《时空特警》(Timecop) 和《星河叛变》(Space Truckers) 等西方科幻大片的合作。当时也正值科幻片的鼎盛时期,电脑图形和特效技术的发展使各种新颖创意和构思成为现实。时间快进到 2013 年,乔治·卢卡斯亲自找到空山基,希望他为《Star Wars Concept》一书创作插画。空山基画了一个名为 Betty Droid 的超级性感机器人,该角色后来还沿用到了电视动画系列《克隆人战争》(Clone Wars) 中。

虽然有合作,但对电影行业的批评他也直言不讳:“电影确实已经成为一个庞大的产业,好处是我们可以制作出色的科幻电影,但也带来了很多负面影响,比如人们开始变得拜金。”除此之外,空山基担心,当科技的发展已经超出了人们的想象,科幻电影的未来该何去何从。“在未来科技还很遥远的时候,科幻电影对人们来说充满吸引力,但我不知道未来是否还会如此。”

Sorayama has also been responsible for bringing futuristic technology into the real world. In 1998, Toshitada Doi, the head of Sony’s Digital Creatures Lab, invited him to design the appearance of the first consumer model of Aibo, the world’s first AI robot-dog. Sony had been experimenting with animal robots for quite some time by then, but they couldn’t get the visual design right until Sorayama came in. “I drew a rough design and showed it to Mr. Doi, and he used it at once,” Sorayama remembers.

Even in its first generation, Aibo was a remarkable robot able to interact with its environment and learn. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, it represented a vision of what was to come. People imagined a future with robot pets at home, where they didn’t have to worry about feeding them or picking up poo. It didn’t happen, or at least it didn’t go mainstream. But that’s not to say the concept failed. The fourth-generation model was released in Japan in 2018, almost twenty years after the first model. Aibo captivated his niche, and what’s exceptional is that its owners truly bond with it. They name it, pat it, and even miss it when they’re apart. Even though it’s a machine, Aibo drives genuine emotions and smiles.

Japan is known for being a robot-loving country. Besides Aibo, the country was the birthplace of many other world-famous robots. Some say it’s because the cultural acceptance of robots in Japan is higher than anywhere else in the world. While in the West, for instance, robots were seen only as machines, in Japan, they were first defined as controllable artificial humans. They’ve also been present in the country’s popular culture for a long time, as we can see with Astro Boy and many other likable robots that frequently appear in Japanese anime.

Nowadays, it’s common to find robots performing various services in day-to-day life in Japan, such as in office buildings, banks, and restaurants as security guards, receptionists, and even waitresses. There is even a robot hotel in Nagasaki, fully automated, even if more for gimmicky purposes than anything else. Robots are also commonly being used as companions in nursing homes to combat loneliness, and there was at least one incident of a Japanese man getting married to an AI holographic anime character. All this leads to a more positive attitude regarding robots, which diverts from the notion that they are here to take over humans.

But, at least for humanoid robots, Sorayama thinks there’s still a long way to go, and he says that based on his observations during a recent visit to a robot factory. “They still can’t walk gracefully on two legs or move with delicate movements as humans do,” he says, and he realizes the task is complex. “Humans are miraculous creatures, made of highly complex mechanisms.”


空山基也曾参与现实世界的未来科技发展。1998 年,索尼数字生物实验室负责人土井利忠 (Toshitada Doi) 邀请他设计了世界上第一只人工智能机器狗 Aibo 的外观。索尼当时已经对动物机器人进行了一段时间的测试,但他们一直没有找到合适的视觉设计,直到空山基的加入。“我当时画了一个大概的设计图给土井先生看,他马上就采用了,”空山回忆道。

第一代 Aibo 已经是很了不起的机器人,能够与环境互动并学习。在 1990 年代末和 2000 年代初,这只机器狗代表了人们对未来的憧憬:一只在家里有机器人宠物,不用费心喂养或处理便便。但这个憧憬最终未能成为现实,或者至少说未能成为主流。但这并不代表这个概念失败了。第四代 Aibo 于 2018 年在日本发布,距第一代 Aibo 推出已经过了 20 年。这一次,Aibo 获得了这个小众市场的青睐,最让人惊喜的是,它的主人可以真正与它建立联系,给它起名字,抚摸它,甚至在分开的时候会想念它。这一代的 Aibo 虽然是机器,但却能激发真正的情感,带来欢乐。

日本是一个热爱机器人的国家。除了 Aibo,日本还发明了许多世界著名的机器人。有人认为这是因为日本对机器人的文化接受度高于其他地方。例如,在西方国家,人们只把机器人视为一种机器,而在日本,它们从一开始就被定义为可控的“人造生命体”,其很久之前就已经出现在日本的流行文化中,譬如铁臂阿童木和机器猫等等。

如今,在日本的日常生活中,经常可以看到机器人从事各类服务,例如在写字楼、银行和餐厅中担任保安、接待员等等。在长崎甚至还有一家完全自动化的机器人酒店,虽然大部分仍然是以制造噱头为主。除此之外,疗养院也经常用机器人来提供陪伴,帮助人们对抗孤独,日本男人和 AI 全息动漫角色结婚的事件也发生了不止一次。所有这些都导致人们对机器人持有好感,而不会想到它们或许会取代人类这种想法。

但空山基认为,对于人形机器人来说,还有很长的路要走,他说:“它们仍然无法像人类那样用两条腿自然流畅地行走或做出微妙的动作。但毕竟人类是神奇的生物,由高度复杂的机制构成。”

Aibo in the modern day
An early iteration of Aibo
©Hajime Sorayama

Interestingly, despite his gynoids’ goddess-like characteristics and high-tech appearance, Sorayama simultaneously and paradoxically thinks of them as humans. The technological element appears less meaningful to him, more a result of an aesthetic preference than an essential quality. “My work takes a life form based on my aesthetic sense,” he says. “You can think of [the gynoids] as human beings with metallic skin. That’s why they have sexual desires and other physiological needs.”

Even in his creative process, his interest in the evolution of technology remains on an aesthetic level. “Even though tools have become more convenient, my creative process in itself hasn’t changed,” he says. In his studio, cluttered with many references, memorabilia, studies, and, naturally, erotic art, Sorayama uses the same manual methods he used when he began drawing. Together with Harumi Yamaguchi, he’s regarded as a master of the airbrush technique, employing it for soft gradients. And he works with two different erasers to create his characteristics glows, highlights, and reflections. An untrained eye could easily mistake such effects for digital work.


有趣的是,虽然空山基创作的机械姬拥有女神外表和高科技外观,但同时他又矛盾地将她们视为人类。这些科技元素似乎对他来说没有太大的意义,更多的是一种审美偏好,而不是重要的因素。他说:“我的作品是以我的审美为基础打造的生命形体。你可以把’机械姬’当作是披着金属皮肤的人类,她们也有性欲和其他生理需求。”

在创作的过程中,他对科技的运用也只停留在审美层面。他说:“尽管创作的工具越来越方便,但我的创作过程本身并没有什么变化。”他如今仍然和最初一样坚持手绘创作。他与山口晴美 (Harumi Yamaguchi) 都是公认的喷绘技术大师,用喷枪打造柔和与渐变的效果。机械姬身上反光、高光的效果,均来自空山基两块不同材质橡皮擦的运用,很像是电脑合成。

©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama
©Hajime Sorayama

Still, Sorayama is not oblivious to the advancements of technology in the domain of art. He recently ventured into the metaverse with NFT art of his own, reproducing a pair of animated robot-sharks taken out of his Aquatic series. He offered them to the public at affordable prices to make them accessible and, in a way, challenge the speculative bubble that ensued with the rise of NFTs. At heart, he’s not looking for a quick cash grab, unlike many artists who are charging exorbitant prices for their NFT work. “I aim for my work to be an inscription of a perpetual futuristic history,” he says.

It’s indeed as a piece of futuristic history that Sorayama’s gynoids live in our collective consciousness. Their retrofuturistic allure throws us back to a future that never was. And yet, a closer look reveals they’re still connected to the world of now. Blurring the lines between humans and machines, they shed light on our complicated relationship with technology and bend our notions of desire, sex, and gender. When asked about his thoughts on the future, Sorayama’s usual irreverence comes into play. “I don’t know. Maybe a woman will take over the world, and all men will be slaves. It’s already like that in my house,” he laughs.


虽说如此,空山基并没有刻意忽略艺术领域的科技发展。最近,他推出了自己的 NFT 艺术,重现了他的《Aquatic》(水生物) 系列中一对机器人鲨鱼的作品、并大胆进军全新的“元宇宙”领域。他以亲民的价格向公众出售这些作品,这在某种程度上也是在挑战 NFT 兴起以来所产生的经济泡沫。他不打算像许多艺术家那样为自己的 NFT 作品收取高昂价格,他的初衷绝不在于圈钱,“我的目标是让我的作品成为未来历史的永恒记录,”他说道。

毋庸置疑,空山基的机械姬已成为我们对于未来构想的一种集体记忆。她们的复古未来主义魅力将我们拉回一个从未存在过的世界。然而,细看之下就会发现,她们仍然与现在的世界相连——既模糊了人类与机器之间的界限、揭示人类与科技的复杂关系,又试着改变我们对欲望、性和性别的观念。当被问及对未来的想法时,空山基恢复了一贯的玩笑式的神情,他说道:“我也不知道。也许女人会主宰着整个世界,让所有的男人成为奴隶。我家里现在就是这样。”

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Website: www.sorayama.jp
Instagram: @hajimesorayamaofficial

 

Contributors: Tomas PinheiroLucas Tinoco
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li
Images Courtesy of Hajime Sorayama, NANZUKA, & HOW Museum


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网站: www.sorayama.jp
Instagram: @hajimesorayamaofficial

 

供稿人: Tomas PinheiroLucas Tinoco
英译中: Olivia Li
图片由 Hajime Sorayama、NANZUKA 与 HOW Museum 提供

You Know the Drill 东京后街的“尖冰”

December 7, 2021 2021年12月7日

Japan is usually seen as a safe, clean, and wealthy country. Although that’s relatively true, it’s not a complete picture. Just ask ralph, a rapper from the outskirts of Tokyo, who knows exactly what it’s like to grow up in the shadows of the city’s neon-lit streets. The stories his music depict are dark and cold, told with an aggressive, monotone delivery. 

With a deep, gravelly voice, his sound is similar to London’s Headie One or the late Brooklyn rapper Pop Smoke. But ralph’s flow is more hurried and dense, complementing the skittering high hats dotting the album. His lyrics, which are mostly Japanese but peppered with English, punch through the crisp soundscapes. Rapid-fire bars are punctuated by alternating octaves and deliberate, unrushed sections.

 

Listen to select tracks below:


大众印象中,日本是秩序井然、低碳环保的发达国度,但现实总与你的想象背道而驰,这一点 ralph 心里比谁都清楚。这位来自东京市郊的说唱歌手,将常年匿藏于背街小巷的故事和盘道出,以咄咄逼人的冷酷腔调,讲述着东京不可示人的传说。

ralph 的声线低沉且克制,乍听之下神似伦敦的 Headie One 或已故布鲁克林说唱歌手 Pop Smoke。但他的 flow 要更急,歌词见缝插针在歌曲的 hi-hats(高音镲片声)之中。通常以日文为主,偶尔穿插几句英文。舌齿谈吐如同高速的机关枪,游刃有余地穿梭在不紧不慢的节拍中。

 

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His recent album, 24oz, is often tense and curt, replete with rough basslines and icy synths. Take “Roll Up,” one of the bleakest tracks on the album. It’s stitched together by orchestral swells, haunting choir samples, and an outright paranoid hook, with ralph spitting in Japanese: “Wake up / It’s clear that something is different / A warning that never stops ringing / Unexpected payback / Hands up.”

It’s not a suffocating album by any means though: perky keys, pitched vocal samples, and aspirational synths keep listeners above water when air is needed. “D.N.R.” offers a surprisingly danceable moment amidst all the claustrophobia, while “Window Shopping” is a bouncy cut about streetwear propelled by big, rubbery bass drums and a stuttering flow.


在他最近的专辑《24oz》中,张力与逼迫感此起彼伏,粗犷的低音线条与冰冷的合成音填色其中。以专辑中风格最为冷峻的曲目之一《Roll Up》(卷一根) 为例,全曲由管弦乐、合唱团人声采样萦绕心头,狂想般的副歌锤打听众的耳朵,ralph 唱道:“当黎明伊始/所有一切都太不真实/闹钟正在警示/那是始料未及的对峙 。”

专辑并非一味的让喘不过气来。干脆利落的节拍、清澈见底的人声采样以及愉悦舒适的合成音,都为整张专辑的氛围上色。例如,《D.N.R.》惊喜地融入舞曲律动;而《Window Shopping》(隔窗购物) 则是一首关于街头服饰的明快曲目,以粗粝的低音鼓和说唱 flow 推动。

 

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At 12 years old, ralph fell in love with rap. He first looked up to Japanese artists, which eventually led him to the American and British rap scenes. He harbored dreams of making his own music for years but didn’t actually try until he was much older. Once he decided to turn his hand at the craft, he wrote lyrics in notebooks for two years before recording anything. His first time in the studio was the 2017 collaboration with Double Clapperz & EGL on “Sha Ni Kamaeru,” and he performed the song for his first-ever live appearance. His verse on the track was a creative breakthrough, one that provided the momentum he needed.


ralph 早在十二岁时便迷上了说唱。他最开始只关注日本本土说唱,后来才慢慢开始将视线移至英美地区。多年来,他一直梦想创作自己的音乐,内心考虑了很久之后,才真正放手尝试。加入说唱圈后,他花费两年时间不断在笔记本上创作歌词。他第一次进录音棚,与 Double Clapperz & EGL 合作了单曲《Sha Ni Kamaeru》。这首创作于 2017 年的作品在当时对 ralph 来说是一次全方位突破,也给了他不少前进的动力。

Raised by his Japanese mother and grandfather in the suburbs north of Tokyo, ralph doesn’t know much about his father other than he was Indonesian. He grew up in the danchi, which are Japan’s social housing projects, largely home to elderly and immigrant populations. The danchis are often the only place for immigrants and minorities to live since they face significant housing discrimination. According to one real estate agency, almost nine out of ten private apartments in Tokyo refuse “foreign” renters.


ralph 打小跟母亲和祖父在东京以北的郊区生活;对于父亲,他知之甚少,只知道他是印尼人。他从小在“团地”里长大,这是日本的社会住房项目,大部分居民都是老年人和移民人口。团地也往往是移民和少数民族唯一能住的地方,因为他们面临严重的住房歧视。据一家日本房地产公司称,在东京的私人公寓中,有 90% 的本地住户都对“外国”租客持有抗拒、抵触的态度。

Life in some of these housing blocks can be difficult. He says the kids aren’t looked after properly, so they tend to cause trouble. “There was a lot of fighting, vending machine thefts, and burglaries,” ralph explains. “Rudeboy Needs” describes life in the danchis with visceral imagery, describing oppressive architecture, drug addicts, crime, and even suicides.

He faced racism from a young age, being called gaijin regularly and was bullied non-stop. “There were other mixed-roots children in my danchis and I played with them,” he says. “But the relationship between Japanese and non-Japanese was extremely delicate and intense.” By middle school, he frequently got into fights with kids who, mistakenly, thought he’d be an easy target to bully. “They were nasty fights,” he recalls.

This was around the time he started to understand discrimination on a deeper level. “It wasn’t just useless violence; it was a denial of identity,” ralph says. “Knowing deep down there’s a difference between foreigners, half-Japanese, and Japanese.”

The authorities discriminate too: “Police stop and search me so frequently,” he says. “I’m sure it’s because I look like a foreigner, even though they don’t say that’s the reason. If you’re at work or in a hurry and try to refuse their request, they block your way and force you to respond.”

These experiences deeply influence his music. “I’ve always felt so isolated, like I have no home,” he says. “I feel like it’s easier to just be alone.”

In “Villains,” he touches on being vilified because of his heritage. “Friends’ parents listen / Don’t play with that girl anymore / In front of the sea due to the difference in blood that cannot be buried.” At the end of the track, he reveals how much it hurts, rapping: “It’s important for her to be struck by the wind of Hama / Pain is like a ship running in the sea with poor visibility / It always appears and disappears / It’s like a night fog.”


团地里的生活并不那么美好。ralph 指出,那里的孩子往往没有良好的教育,经常惹事生非。“打架斗殴是常有的事儿、自动售货机盗窃和入室盗窃事件更是时有发生,”ralph 解释说。在歌曲《Rudeboy Needs》(野男孩之需) 中,他从压抑的居住环境、瘾君子、犯罪、自杀事件等角度,赤裸地回顾了那些年在团地的真实生活。

ralph 从小就遭受种族歧视,经常被人叫作“gaijin” (外人),受尽凌辱。他说:“我住的团地里还有很多混血儿,我们经常一起玩。但日本人和非日本人之间的关系非常微妙和紧张。”到了中学,他经常和那些误以为他好欺负的小孩打架,“那时候打架打得很凶,”他回忆道。

大约在这个时期,他开始对歧视有了更深的理解。ralph 说:“打架是无意义的暴力,也是对身份的否认,因为在内心深处,你能清楚地意识到外国人、半日本人和日本人之间的差异。”

歧视还来自于当地的政府机构,“警察经常拦路搜查。虽然他们没说原因,但我敢肯定,就是因为我看起来像外国人。如果你在工作或赶时间,试图拒绝他们的要求,他们就会挡你的路,逼你作出回应,”他说道。

这些经历为他的创作打下了烙印。他说:“我一直觉得很孤独,就像没有家一样。对我来说,独自一人或许更容易些。”

在歌曲《Villains》(恶棍们) 中,他谈及了自己因血统问题而被诋毁的经历:“家长的话总是令人难堪/现在让你孩子和那女孩一刀两断/撒泡尿好好看看/你们的血液不能同源。”在歌曲结尾,他用说唱袒露这些经历带来的痛苦:“像是停泊在叙利亚/痛苦停留在海面看不清脚下/其实这些东西一直在挣扎/就像那海上的雾,蒙蔽了双眼让你抓瞎。”

Thriving on Black British musical inspirations, ralph is one of the few rappers in Japan exploring the sounds of UK drill, borrowing its flow and slang. “D.N.R.” was an ode to 90s UK garage as well, something that’s increasingly common in the Japanese scene. But he’s most fond of grime, a highly digitized style of rap from London from the early 2000s. On “Selfish,” which draws on the genre’s charged vocal delivery and hyperactive hi-hats, he calls the local haters out, saying they’ll learn to like it: “Not possible in Japan? Well, sure / You can’t do it with all your excuses / I can do it, I can make it / Get ready for the flip-flop (Selfish).”

Although he’s speaking about grime, it’s a line that could clearly apply to the long list of people who’ve doubted him—ralph has finally made it and there’s nothing the haters can do about it.


ralph 深受英国黑人音乐启发,是日本为数不多以英国 drill 为主的说唱歌手,他沿用了这一音乐流派的 flow 和俚语融入进自己的创作。除此之外,他还有一些致敬 90 年代英国车库舞曲 (Garage) 的歌,譬如单曲《D.N.R》。但他最喜爱的还是 Grime,一种从车库舞曲衍生而来的说唱风格,出现在千禧年左右。在《Selfish》(自私) 单曲中,他以 Grime 招牌的说唱方式,喊话身边对自己风格带有敌意的人:“你说日本没有入口/这全是你的借口/我要做到,用我的舌头/与你的自私和傲慢来场搏斗。”

现在看来,对于那些曾质疑他、讨厌他的人来说,ralph 显然胜出,这已是不争的事实。

To ralph, success isn’t about being rich and famous; he’s actually ambivalent about these achievements. He appreciates the money he’s making and loves to see his fans pressing up to the stage during performances, but these are not ends in themselves. As he raps in “Selfish:” “Stack yen, I can’t get enough / I’ll write mandala in my head until I die.” He’s laying out what he feels in an imaginary mandala, a symbol representing a dreamer’s search for fulfillment. For him, being rich won’t bring peace. He doesn’t want to flex the wealth he’s earned and still wants to remain in the shadows—to the extent that’s still possible. “Money makes me comfortable, but I’d rather let the facts speak without exaggeration,” ralph says. He’d rather seek out peace and ignore what others think.


对于 ralph 来说,成功并不意味着腰缠万贯,他对金钱与名声并不感冒。能通过演出挣到钱、受到越来越多乐迷的拥趸,这固然是好事,但并不是他的目的。就像《Selfish》歌曲中唱的那样:“小心跌入金钱的漩涡/创作永无止境,是场曼陀罗”,他借用曼陀罗的概念,暗示只有不断追寻梦想,人才能够得到内心的满足,这种满足是多少钱都无法衡量的。ralph 不想过奢靡的日子,生活对他来说,还匿藏于东京不看光亮的地下,在市郊的团地,他说道:“钱的确会让你过得舒服,但我宁愿保持真实的自我,而不是浮夸表象。” ralph 就这样生活在内心的平静之中,他从不在乎别人的看法。

Like our stories? Follow us on Facebook and Instagram.

 

Instagram: @ralphganesh
YouTube: ~/ralph

 

Contributor: Mike Steyels
Photographer: Ryuichi Oshiraw
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


喜欢我们的故事?欢迎关注我们 Neocha 的微博微信

 

Instagram: @ralphganesh
YouTube: ~/ralph

 

供稿人: Mike Steyels
摄影师: Ryuichi Oshiraw
英译中: Olivia Li

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Salmon Games 三文鱼游戏

December 2, 2021 2021年12月2日

Netflix’s Squid Games has ignited a creative spark in people around the world. The unprecedented popularity of the Netflix hit and the strong visual motifs that define the show have inspired Halloween costumes, countless YouTube videos, and much more.

Similarly influenced by the show is Hu Yujia, a Chinese chef who’s made a name for himself as an “onigiri artist.” In a recent series of Instagram posts, he presents iconic characters from the show using nothing but raw fish, roasted seaweed, and sushi rice. For those familiar with his work, this isn’t anything surprising: pop culture has long been a topic of fascination for the imaginative taisho.


《鱿鱼游戏》在全世界范围内掀起了二次创作风波,无论是万圣节的制服狂欢还是 YouTube 博主的翻拍演绎,这个新生IP无疑赢得了大量艺术家的青睐——对寿司艺术家胡宇佳(Hu Yujia)来讲也不例外。定睛细看,你会发现他用简单的紫菜、三文鱼、白米饭、吞拿鱼就还原了剧中的木头人娃娃等反派角色,仿佛惊悚又紧张的游戏场景浮现眼前。他将这些作品称为“Onigiri Art”,取日语“お握り(饭团)”之意。这位厨师以寿司作为创作媒介,重新诠释着自己对流行文化的理解。

Hu was born in Wenzhou, a city in China’s Zhejiang Province. He was raised by his grandmother while his parents moved to Europe in search of better opportunities. At the time, migrant Chinese in Italy often followed one of two entrepreneurial paths, either running clothing factories or Chinese restaurants. Hu’s parents settled on the former. “My parents got into the garment business early on in Milan, and when I was 8 years old, they decided I should move there with them,” he recalls. “Ever since then, I’ve called it home.”

Even as a kid, Hu’s creative spirit shined, and his artistic inclinations landed him a spot at a prestigious art high school in Milan. He intended to graduate and enroll in an art university, but that plan was derailed.

“Older-generation Chinese parents believe that working hard is more worthwhile than being book smart, which is the case with my parents,” Hu laughs. “At the time, they decided to open a sushiya with a master chef they had a great relationship with. They also considered me studying art to be a waste of time, so I might as well be a part of the family business. I heeded their decision and ended up apprenticing under the sushi chef.”

Little did Hu know at the time, this path would eventually lead him back into the art world.


胡宇佳来自浙江文成,自小与奶奶生活在一起,他的父母为谋求更好的生活质量,早早就去往欧洲打拼。在当时,去往欧洲务工的中国人大多只有两个选项:开服装厂、开中餐厅,而宇佳的父母正是前者。“我爸爸妈妈很早就去了米兰做服装生意,8岁的时候,家里把我送去和他们一起生活,然后我就在米兰扎根成长,直到现在。“

宇佳自小便展现出对艺术的过人天赋,他凭优异的成绩考上米兰的一所一流艺术高中——Liceo Artistico Umberto Boccioni,一路顺风顺遂的宇佳,本该在这所顶级学府进修五年(意大利的高中为五年制),然后如愿升入一所艺术大学。可是在他高中四年级时,念书的计划就被打破。”许多中国父母似乎都保持’读书无用论’的观点,我的爸爸妈妈也是这样子。他们遇到了一个做寿司的师傅,一拍即合,决定合作开一家日料店,然后又觉得我读艺术没有出路,还不如回家帮忙打理生意稳当,于是我就无奈地离开校园啦(笑),然后我就成了日料店的学徒。“有趣的是,这件事反而成为了宇佳真正踏上艺术之路的绝妙契机。

Environment doesn’t always dictate mindset, at least not for Hu. His creative flame was never extinguished working at the restaurant; it was a glowing ember waiting to be stoked alight. Sushi, as it turned out, would be the spark.

It all clicked into place when he realized that sushi rice could be more than just rice. Its malleability means that it could be used to sculpt in interesting ways. Experimentation with the unconventional medium soon followed. In this unexplored creative territory, trial-and-error was key, and the time he’s invested has led to some interesting earlier works, such as his sushi reproductions of Hokusai’s The Great Wave off Kanagawa and Edvard Munch’s The Scream. Instead of a painter’s palette and brush, he brandished a sashimi knife, making his kitchen an artist atelier in its own right.


环境的变化并不能改变一个人的信念。喜爱艺术的宇佳,开始在工作的同时寻找新的创作载体。不知何时,他发现寿司可以作为一种独特的创作介质,于是他抱着实验性的想法,开始基于寿司进行创作——在这尚未有人的创作领域里,一切创新都像摸着石头过河。在不断的尝试中,他终于摸索出自己的工作流。现在,哪怕还原难度较高的世界名作,如《呐喊》《神奈川冲浪里》等,宇佳都能信手拈来。他放下了颜料和画笔,也拿起了寿司刀和牙签,把各种材料裁切得恰到好处、摆放到位;他离开了画室,但他也把厨房变成了自己的”艺术战场“,杀出了一片天。

Hu’s inspiration now comes from a mix of pop culture and nostalgia, spanning across topics that range from video games and anime to the NBA and hip-hop culture. He’s created sushi replicas of the original Gameboy, first-generation Pokemon such as Pikachu and Charmander, characters from Dragon Ball Z, the astronauts from hit video game Among Us, and much more.

Portraits of NBA players and rappers also make frequent cameos in his work. Giannis  Antetokounmpo, Future, Lil Uzi Vert, and more have all appeared in sushi form.


宇佳的灵感基本源于他对流行文化的观察,以及对童年记忆的怀旧之情。从满载一代人回忆的 Gameboy 游戏机,到童年经典《宝可梦》中的皮卡丘、小火龙,再到《龙珠Z》里的魔人布欧,又或是近年来在Z世代群体里话题度居高不下的《太空狼人杀》,无论是哪个年代的标志,这位“老男孩”都能捕捉为创作的素材。他的灵感也是多方面的:宇佳喜欢 NBA,于是他尝试用寿司捏出自己喜欢的球员的脸;他也喜欢嘻哈,于是他又为说唱歌手 Future、Lil Uzi Vert等人创作“寿司画像”;他对时尚有所涉猎,于是他开始创作一些时尚品牌的寿司艺术,最后还成功获得了 Vogue、Bulgari 等大牌的合作机会。

While this diverse range of works has made his sushi art incredibly memorable, what propelled him into the public eye was the much earlier series, Shoe-Shi. As the title implies, it consisted of sushi arrangements of his favorite sneakers. The project kicked off in 2017 when sneaker culture was at the height of its popularity, and his fish-fabricated sneakers quickly caught the attention of sneakerheads around the world, along with coverage from media platforms such as VICE and Highsnobriety. His family’s sushiya, Sakana, also shared the spotlight.


不过,让他真正“出圈”的,当属“Shoe-Shi”系列作品。2017年开始,正值全球范围的球鞋文化复兴,大众对于“球鞋文化”的狂热空前,他凭一双双用三文鱼和白米饭制作的“可食用球鞋”,击中了潮流爱好者的心,更被VICE、Highsnobiety 等潮流媒体争相报道,他担任主厨的日料店“Sakana Sushi”也被各地来访的媒体围得水泄不通。

As his fame grew, so did his following. Like many artists, as their fanbase grows, there comes a struggle between appeasing public expectations and not neglecting their own creative urges. This balance is something Hu is always mindful of. “The only way is to adapt to change, to keep an explorative mindset and pushing forward,” he says. His work has since expanded to incorporate more ingredients, such as avocado slices, shrimp, and tuna.

One particularly memorable experience since his social media account took off was a trip to Shanghai, where he ran into a fan who asked for a photo together. This was an unexpected surprise. “Even now, when someone comes in the restaurant asking for me, or when I’m traveling and someone recognizes me, I’m always surprised,” he laughs. “I never thought so many people would see or like my work.”

The positive feedback he’s received has been instrumental in motivating him to continue, and in fact, he no longer even considers himself as just a chef experimenting with art, but rather an artist who’s passionate about food. “Even though my works are still based on my personal passions, the way I think about creating is completely different from before,” he says.

Hu has also toyed with the idea of posting on Chinese social media platforms to get his work in front of more people, but he has some reluctance. “Truth be told, with considerations to the cultural roots that my work taps into, it’s tricky to say how it’ll be received in my country,” he says. “I haven’t found the courage to share them there yet.”


知名度的上升,让他不得不开始考虑创作与流量的问题,至今他也一直在这两方面间寻求一个平衡。宇佳说:“我觉得求变的唯一途径就是不断实践、不断摸索。”现在他又加入了吞拿鱼、牛油果、熟虾等材料,逐渐丰富了他的武器库。

他回忆起某一次他回到上海,偶遇了一位忠实粉丝,还被邀请了合照,这令他惊喜不已。

“每当有某个地方的粉丝特地来店里找我,或是我去某个国家时别人认出了我,我都会非常惊讶——居然有这么多人在关注我的作品!”

如今,他在创作上投入了更多精力。从前他觉得自己是“身为主厨去做艺术尝试”,而现在他认为自己就是不折不扣的创作者。“尽管现在我也是出于爱好去做我的作品,但我明显感觉到创作的心境已经和之前完全不同了。”不过,想法的改变自然会带来压力,当商业邀约越来越多,他不得不开始思考两份工作之间的平衡关系。

他甚至开始思考扩大自己平台的可能性,由于中国的粉丝不少,他一直希望在中国的社交媒体上发布自己的作品,却一直抱有隐忧:“说实话,由于我创作背靠的文化,我感觉这在国内会是一个比较棘手的问题,这让我迟迟未能鼓起勇气将作品发表在这里。”

Fans from all over the world have visited Hu’s sushiya in Milan just to get a taste of his famous shoe-shi. He enjoys these special requests and seeing a customer’s face light up to one of his onigiri creations in person is something special. “It feels almost like I’m doing performance art,” he says. “Sushi to me is both food and art, so I don’t feel like a sushi chef anymore—I feel like an artist performing in front of an audience.”

These experiences have led him to reflect on the boundary between food and art. Where does the line begin and end? “I always wonder if customers consider whether my Shoe-shi creations were artwork or just another dish,” Hu says.


常有世界各地的粉丝来宇佳的店里拜访,只为了吃上他亲手做的 Shoe-Shi,他也会乐此不疲地做给客人们吃,并观察他们的反应。“我觉得这就像表演艺术,因为寿司对于我来讲既是食物,也是艺术品,所以我不觉得我像’大将’(寿司店的主厨),我感觉我在粉丝面前表演创作。”

这些经历也让他突然萌生了一个想法:食物与艺术品的界限,究竟在哪里?宇佳说:“我很好奇,当我把一个个成品的 Shoe-Shi 端出来之后,客人眼里的究竟是食物还是艺术品?”

From his observations, some customers seem to just consider his work as just whimsical food, which can be slightly disappointing. “It’s unsurprising though, considering that my medium of choice will influence these reactions,” he notes. “No matter what, my onigiri art must return to their original essence, which is something destined to be eaten.“

Hu still values the appreciation, even if it’s only at a surface level. He even draws parallels between these customers and the media coverage he’s received. “I’m honored about being interviewed and featured on Western media,” he says. “But if they’re more eager to learn more about the creative process behind it, that’d be even more exciting.”

In this age of internet fame, he’s seen how artists have pigeonholed themselves once they find success with a particular work. This is something he doesn’t want to happen with his onigiri art, hence the reason he’s expanded his work beyond shoe-inspired sushi. “If people mention me in the future, I want to be thought of as a sushi artist,” he says. “I don’t want to just be thought of as the guy who made shoe-shi.”


经过他的反复观察,他发现客人更多的还是以半猎奇的心态去品尝一份食物,这让他有一丝微妙的失落。“不过也正常,毕竟我的创作性质决定了一切,这些 Onigiri Art 无论如何,最后还是要回归它们本来的‘功用’的,那就是作为食物被人类吃掉。”他顿了一下,又补充道:“不过这就和那些来采访我的美国媒体差不多,虽然我感到十分荣幸开心,可如果他们能更多关注我背后的创作理念,我想会更好吧。”

他目睹了许多艺术家因为某件作品走红之后,再无创意发挥而变成了陨落新星。所以他十分害怕自己被 Shoe-Shi 束缚住拳脚。“我希望以后别人提及我的时候,会把我称作寿司艺术家,而不是’那个做了 Shoe-Shi’的人,这对于一个艺术工作者来讲真的很重要。”

On October 5, 2018, Banksy made ripples in the art world when his Girl with Balloon painting was partially destroyed via a hidden shredding device the moment that the painting was auctioned off for 1.4 million dollars at Sotheby’s. In an Instagram post, Banksy posted a quote by philosopher Mikhail Bakunin: “The urge for destruction is also a creative urge.” The piece was later re-titled Love is in the Bin and auctioned again at a staggering 25 million dollars, close to 20 times the valuation of the original work.

Hu, a longstanding Banksy fan, was deeply inspired by this act by the art-world renegade. He became interested in the ephemeral nature of art, and how destruction doesn’t necessarily lessen the artistic value of a piece of work. This led him to wonder about the possibility of opening a sushi art museum, where he would create unique sushi art that would be displayed one day before being eaten.

“This idea is tied to two lines of thinking. First, I want my art to return to its essence of being food, and food in itself has a limited shelf life. Secondly, I believe this immortalizes each piece, in that in being consumed digested, it’ll eventually return to the natural world,” Hu grins. “Banksy destroyed his own artwork, so why can’t I eat mine?”


2018年10月5日,在伦敦苏富比拍卖行,英国街头艺术家 Banksy 在他作品的画框里秘密安装了碎纸机,亲自将他的《手持起球的女孩》一作粉碎,并留以哲学家米哈伊尔·巴枯宁的名句——“破坏的欲望即创造的欲望”向世人揭晓了他此举的缘由。随后,该作品以《爱在垃圾桶里》的名义成交,价格达1850万英镑,反超原作二十倍之多,引起全世界艺术爱好者哗然。

作为 Banksy 的忠实粉丝,宇佳被这种“游侠”般随性的创作思想启发。他意识到,一件作品的短暂性、可破坏性,也有可能为作品赋予新的价值,要想永远保留一件寿司艺术,并不需要靠防腐剂的堆砌,来使作品的“肉身”永存。他希望未来能创设一个“寿司艺术博物馆”,在那里,他将每天展出一件现场制作的寿司艺术品,在展柜摆放一天后,再当着展览者的面把它吃掉。

“之所以我会这么做,原因有二。”宇佳笑着说:“一是因为我的作品要回归到食物这一层面上,毕竟食物可不能储存太久嘛;第二点是因为,这是一种让作品真正不朽的办法,来源于自然的东西,终究要经过我们的消化,回到自然中去。这有种’不破不立’的味道,通过破坏它,反而能去维护它的艺术价值。”

在他看来,这么做还有一种 Banksy 式的浪漫:“他亲手粉碎了他的作品,那么我为什么不可以亲自吃掉我的心血创作呢?”

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供稿人: Senki Yu

What’s Your Karma? 古着 = 环保

November 30, 2021 2021年11月30日

When you put something good into the world, more good will come back to you. Filipino upcycling clothing brand Karma lives by this concept. By repurposing used clothing in new and interesting ways, the brand aims to promote the idea that style can be expressed without contributing to the destruction of our planet.

“I didn’t start Karma to explicitly make a profit,” founder Erik Saguiped says. “I really just wanted to raise awareness about the possibilities of upcycling. I’m literally adding positivity to the lifecycle of clothing! Hopefully, this will show people a different perspective. People can make their own upcycled clothes too if they just try, and I hope to inspire them.”


善有善报、恶有恶报,这是菲律宾升级回收服装品牌 Karma 所秉承的理念。品牌致力于旧衣的创意改造,他们并不认为时尚就是破坏地球环境的借口。创始人 Erik Saguiped 表示:“Karma 的创立并不单是为了盈利。我想提高更多人对升级回收的认识,为衣服的生命周期带来一些积极的倡导,为大家提供一种新的思路!我希望能给那些对升级改造有兴趣的人带来一点启发。”

The Karma brand is riotously colored and raw by intent. Patches of material are pieced together in jagged patterns with stitching that’s bulky and visible. “I like it loud,” Saguiped grins. “I like the presentation to look manually made, not too perfect.” Frequently, he’ll feature well known brands as a way to show appreciation. There’s a series made from his collection of Tommy Hilfiger pieces, a jacket featuring the Ralph Lauren Polo bear, and a pair of NBA shorts. His Human Made jacket is made with T-shirts from the early 2000s. “I get a lot of stuff for my upcycling from the clearance racks in my shop, and this jacket was made with pieces that were too small for anyone to buy, but I still appreciate them and wanted to make use of them.” Even when upcycling, there are a lot of leftover scraps, and he uses these trimmings for even more pieces.


Karma 的品牌风格以鲜艳、原始和纯粹迎人,往往由很多不同材质面料拼装完成,搭配粗旷的缝线设计。“我喜欢抢眼一点的,喜欢这种略带瑕疵的不确定性,让人一看就知道是纯手工打造,”Erik 笑着说道。他常以名牌服饰作为设计灵感,此前,他就用穿旧不要的 Tommy Hilfiger 衣服设计了一整个系列、还设计过一件带有 Ralph Lauren Polo 小熊图案的外套、一条 NBA 短裤以及 Human Made 夹克等等。“我的升级回收作品中,有很多材料都是店里清仓货架上的衣服。有的衣服尺码太小,没人买,所以想把它们好好利用起来。”升级回收产生的很多边角料,也被他用来创作。

Saguiped got a taste for fashion in high school and has been getting his clothes tailored since he was a kid. He’s been collecting vintage clothes since 2014, drawn by their uniqueness and affordability. “One reason I started thrifting was because I didn’t have enough to buy brand name clothes,” he says. “But it’s also like wearing a one-of-one piece, because no one else has the same one.”


读高中时,Erik 就对时尚产生了浓厚的兴趣,很早以前便开始定制属于自己的衣服。他从 2014 年开始收集古着,他说道:“那时候没钱买名牌衣服,古着很便宜,而且基本不会撞衫。”

It wasn’t long after he started thrifting that he began thinking about the impact of fashion on the planet. “Within a year, I was exposed to issues related to fashion like global warming and waste through the vintage community,” he says. “I’m an unhealthy hoarder, and I had to ask myself how many shirts I can actually buy and what brands I would support.”

Inspired by designer Nicole McLaughlin, he landed on the idea of upcycling as a way to advocate for sustainability and as a way to leave a legacy, but it would take a few years before he really focused on it.


也正是因为古着,Erik 开始思考时尚对地球环境所带来的影响。他说:“全球变暖、资源浪费、巨大的碳排放等等这些问题,都和服装制造产业有或多或少的关联。我有时候会问我自己,到底买多少件衣服是个够,以及有哪些品牌能真正能做到环保。”

受到设计师 Nicole McLaughlin 的启发,他认定要以升级回收这个主题做一些有意义的事,几年后,这个想法得到了实现。

In 2017, Saguiped launched The Vintage Junkie Manila Instagram page to sell clothes from his personal collection to support his vintage habit. In recent years, opportunities for vintage sellers in the Philippines exploded as people took to Instagram Live and started auctioning clothing to international customers with the help of an influential host. When the pandemic hit, online sales took off, and he was able to earn enough to open a physical shop with three other sellers called Community Flea Market. To fill the racks, they pull pieces from their personal collections, but also go out seeking out gems in thrift shops and flea markets.


2017 年,Erik 创建了 The Vintage Junkie Manila Instagram 帐号,通过售卖他的个人服装收藏,以维持他的古着爱好。近年来,菲律宾越来越多古着卖家借助 Instagram 等线上平台和网红带货的方式,向世界各地顾客出售服装,销量也节节攀升。疫情暴发之时,线上销售如火如荼,Erik 因此获得了足够的入,与其他三个卖家共同开设了一家线下实体店,名为 Community Flea Market。除了晒出各自尖货,他们也常常到旧货店和跳蚤市场淘货。

Importing used clothing is technically illegal in the Philippines, but thrift shops (called ukay ukays in Filipino) are a common sight and Saguiped is a regular shopper. “We go to shops on arrival days,” he says. “Some give us first access, midnight deals before the public get to see it, and usually there’s a fee. Sometimes it’s double the regular price, sometimes there’s a minimum purchase. I look for weird and obscure stuff, clothing I don’t usually see, because that’s special.”


在菲律宾,进口旧衣服理论上是违法的,不过旧货店(在菲律宾称为 ukay ukays)在当地却是很常见。Erik 说:“每次只要一到货,我们就立马到店里去看。有的店会让我们在面向公众的前一晚预先抢购,专门来一场午夜特卖。但活动通常需要一些附加费用,有时商品甚至是正价的两倍,有时会要求最低购买量。我希望能淘到一些风格古怪的衣服,一些平常很少见的衣服,这样才够特别。所以经常整宿不眠,精淘细选。”

Although Saguiped was able to cash in on the secondhand-clothing boom and turn his passion into a career, it also left him feeling jaded: “It really burned me out, all these people bidding for the same thing and seeing these insane prices. This was the opposite of what drew me to the community. People like to show off how expensive their vintage clothes are now, it’s being saturated with people who want clout.”

The boom is what motivated him to focus on Karma, which he launched in 2016 but didn’t take very seriously until recently. Saguiped doesn’t own a sewing machine and isn’t trained in design, so he leans heavily on local, family-owned tailors: “They know me well, they’re familiar with my tastes. As a designer there are times when I think too abstractly, so they help bring me back to ground.”


尽管 Erik 成功从这股二手服装热潮中获利,并将自己的热情转化为事业,但他却日益感到厌倦:“我开始感觉无趣,所有人都在竞标同一件物品,价格也越来越疯狂。这其实与当初吸引我进入这行的初衷截然相反。现在的人们都喜欢炫富,服装成为他们标榜自己的途径。”

这促使他更加专注于 Karma。虽然品牌早在 2016 年便创立,但直到最近才开始用心打理起来。Erik 没有缝纫机,也没学过设计,他的设计基本依靠当地民间的裁缝作坊:“平时我经常到裁缝店里做客,他们很了解我的品味。作为一名设计师,我的想法有时候太抽象,他们能让我的作品更接地气。”

For many of the same reasons that he was personally attracted to upcycling, he thinks more people will follow from the vintage community. He started posting his Karma pieces on his vintage page and that was where he got most of his early supporters from. “I think this is the natural progression for vintage lovers who are seeking out creative and unique clothes that don’t damage the environment.” And he says that it’s started to attract the interest of people outside the vintage community as well. “These days people are more aware about how fast fashion is destroying the environment. I’m not going to be a hypocrite and say my lifestyle is 100 percent sustainable, but I’m trying to contribute to a reduction in waste and raising awareness.”


他相信,只要初衷够纯粹,肯定会吸引更多真正的古着爱好者参与进来。他开始创作自己的作品,拥有一帮共同爱好的朋友。“我觉得古着的定义会逐渐被大众理解为,一些既不会破坏环境,又别具创意和独特性的服装,只是时间问题。”他又补充道,这股风潮也开始吸引古着社区以外人们的兴趣。“现在,越来越多人意识到快时尚对环境的影响。我不会虚伪地声称我的生活方式 100% 可持续,但我一直在努力减少浪费和提高这方面的意识。”

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Contributor: Mike Steyels
Photographer: Jilson Tiu
Chinese Translation: Olivia Li


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供稿人: Mike Steyels
摄影师: Jilson Tiu
英译中: Olivia Li

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